Wednesday, 31 December 2014

"Helena" Cuffed Padders



Size 6-12 months (approx 12.5 cm x 6.5 cm)


Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end

Requirements
Any worsted weight  (4)  yarn; in one colour, or two, ie., Colour A (the upper) and Colour B (the sole).

5mm hook for 6-12 months (adjust hook size if you need to according to whether you crochet tightly or loosely); Yarn needle for sewing up ends.

Finished size:  12.5 x 6.5 cm approx.

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; beg = beginning; st/s = stitch/stitches; ch = chain; hdc2tog = half double 2 stitches together; hdc3together = half double crochet 3 stitches together; blo = black loop only; fpdc = front post double crochet; bpdc = back post double crochet; fphdc = front post half double crochet; bphdc = back post half double crochet.


Pattern:

To begin, you need to make 4 soles.

You can make all 4 the same colour, or you can make  2 soles in Colour B, fasten off and weave in ends, then make 2 soles in Colour A, do not fasten off – as follows:

With Colour B:  (make 2)

Row 1:  With Colour B, Chain 10;  sc in 2nd ch from hook, and next 7;   3 sc in last chain.  Working on other side of the chain, sc 8,  join to beg sc.

Row 2:  Ch 1, 2sc in same st as ch 1, sc 6, 2 sc in next 5 sts,   sc 6, 2 sc in last 2 sts, join to beg sc.

Row 3:  Ch 2, hdc in same st, 2hdc in next st, hdc 9, 2hdc in next 5 sts, hdc 10, 2 hdc in last 2 sts, join to beg ch2.

Row 4:  Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, 2hdc in next st; hdc 32 sts, 2 hdc in last 2 sts, sl st to beg ch 2.  (40 & ch2) . 

Fasten off and weave in ends.

With Colour A:  (make 2)

Repeat Rows One to Four as above.  Do not fasten off.

Join the soles:

With wrong sides facing each other, place Colour A sole and Colour B sole together, matching them up with back of sole to back of sole, front to front, and slip stitch them together as follows:



First, with Colour A, slip stitch the top sole (Colour A) to the bottom sole at the centre of the back of the bootie, by inserting the hook through the middle stitch in both soles and pulling the yarn through.  Keep the hook on top of both soles, and the yarn underneath. 
Matching stitch for stitch, slip stitch around both soles, drawing the yarn through each time, around the sole, until you are back at the rear of the sole again.  You should now have 40 slip stitches worked into the soles, and the bottom of the soles should look like this:


Slip stitch around the edge again once, to bring the yarn back up to the top of the soles, and working from the outside of the shoe, make 1 sc in each slip stitch from the previous round. (40 sc).


Note that you are only picking up the slip stitches you did previously.
When you are done, the bootie will look like this:

 


Row 5:  Working again from the outside of the shoe, ch2, hdc in same st, then hdc around in blo, in both the 2nd and 3rd loops of the previous sc (this keeps the stitches nice and neat with no long gaps as sometimes happens with working into the blo).  If you prefer you can simply crochet into blo normally, the end result is the same, but it will be looser.  This time, sl st into the 1st hdc, not the ch 2 – this will prevent a gap at the back of the heel.


Make sure at this point that you have 40 hdc & ch 2 in total.
If you have veered off the centre of the back of the shoe, now is a good time to sl st back to the centre st to start the next part.
Row 6:  ch2, hdc in same st,  fphdc in next and every st  around.  Join to 1st hdc. (40 sts)



Right Bootie:

Row 7:  ch 2, fphdc in hdc from prev row, fphdc in next 12 sts, fphdc2tog 3 times,fphdc in next 5 sts, fphdc2tog 3 times, fphdc in next 10, join to 1st hdc.

Row 8:  ch 2, fphdc in next 11 sts, fphdc2tog 3 times, fphdc in next 2 sts, pfhdc2tog 3 times, fphdc in next 9, sl st to beg ch2

Row 9:  Keeping pattern as before, ch 2, fphdc in next 10 sts,  fphdc 2 tog twice, fphdc in next 2 sts, fphdc2tog twice, fphdc in next 8 sts, sl st to beg ch2.  Fasten off.

Row 10: Place 2 markers either side of the front middle 2 fphdc that you have not used to decrease for the past few rows, attach yarn to next st to the left from the left marker (looking at them from the front of the bootie).  Ch2, fphdc in each st around to second marker, working 1hdc in space after the last fphdc.  Turn

Row 11:  Ch1, sc all around, turn

Row 12: ch1, 2sc in same st (increase), sc to last st, 2sc in last st, turn

Row 13:  rep row 12

Row 14:  ch1, sc around, sc down the ends of the last 3 rows of sc, sc across 2 fphdc at the front and then sc up the other sc edge, sl st to beg ch1, fasten off.

Tidy up ends.

Make chain of 70

Sew flaps down with two nice buttons, then thread the tie through the gaps all around the underside of the flap

Left Bootie:

Row 7:  ch 2, fphdc in hdc from prev row, fphdc in next 10 sts, fphdc2tog 3 times, fphdc in next 5 sts, fphdc2tog 3 times, fphdc in next 12, join to 1st hdc.

Row 8:  ch 2, fphdc in next 9 sts, fphdc2tog 3 times, fphdc in next 2 sts, pfhdc2tog 3 times, fphdc in next 11, sl st to beg ch2

Row 9:  Keeping pattern as before, ch 2, fphdc in next 8 sts,  fphdc 2 tog twice, fphdc in next 2 sts, fphdc2tog twice, fphdc in next 10 sts, sl st to beg ch2.  Fasten off.

Row 10: Place 2 markers either side of the front middle 2 fphdc that you have not used to decrease for the past few rows, attach yarn to next st to the left from the left marker (looking at them from the front of the bootie).  Ch2, fphdc in each st around to second marker, working 1hdc in space after the last fphdc.  Turn

Row 11:  Ch1, sc all around, turn

Row 12: Ch1, 2sc in same st (increase), sc to last st, 2sc in last st, turn

Row 13:  Rep row 12

Row 14:  Sc along the ends of the last 3 rows of sc, sc across 2 fphdc at the front and then sc up the other sc edge, sl st to beg ch1, fasten off.

Tidy up ends.  Finish as for Right Bootie.




©AG Handmades 2014



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