Monday, 30 June 2014

Happy Hollie Cardigan Set


Happy Hollie Cardigan and Hat


Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end. 


Materials:
2 skeins worsted weight (aran/10ply) yarn (Colour A (main colour) and Colour B (trim))
5mm crochet hook
3 large buttons
Yarn needle for sewing up ends

Measurements:
Chest 20” – 22”’; Armhole opening 4”; Neck width 4”; Length from shoulder to hem 12” (you can adjust this to whatever length you need).

Gauge:  12 sts and 8 rows dc on 5mm hook = 4”

Approx age 6-12 months

Abbreviations: sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; sk = skip; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; ch = chain; sp = space; rep = repeat


Pattern:

Row One: With 5mm hook and Colour A, work a double crochet foundation chain of 41 sts. If you prefer to work a normal chain, work a chain of 43 then double crochet into the 3rd stitch from the hook and to the end. Turn.

Row Two: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 3, 2 dc in next*, rep from * to * to the end (52 sts), turn.

Row Three: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 4, 2 dc in next*, rep from * to * to the end (62 sts), turn.

Row Four: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 5, 2dc in next*, rep from * to * to end (72 sts), turn.

Row Five: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 6, 2 dc in next*, rep from * to * to end, (82sts). Turn.

Row Six: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 7, 2 dc in next*, rep from * to * to end, (92sts). Turn.

Row Seven: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 8, 2 dc in next*, rep from * to * to end, (102 sts). Turn.

Row Eight: Ch 3, 2dc in same st, (sk 1 sp, 3dc in next sp) 7 times. Skip the next 21 spaces, 3dc in next, (sk 1, 3dc in next), 14 times, sk 21 spaces, 3dc in next, *sk 1, 3dc in next* 7 times, working final dc into top of ch3 from prev row.

Row Nine: ch3 , (dc, ch1, dc) into centre dc of cluster of 3, *(dc, ch1, dc) in centre of next cluster of 3 dcs*, repeat to end, 1 dc into top of ch3 from prev. row.

Row Ten: Ch 3, 3 dc in next “V” space, *3dc in next “V” space*, rep to end, 1 dc into top of ch3 from prev. row.

Repeat Rows Nine and Ten until cardigan measures 11” from shoulder, or to desired length.

Next Row:  Work one row of sc all around hemline, up left side, around neckline, down right side, and back to the start, remembering to work 3sc into the corners to keep them nice and square  – sl st to beg sc, fo and change to Colour B.



Edging:
Attach yarn to bottom corner,  working from the right side, sc all around as in the prev. row.  Sl st to beg sc.

Next Row: Ch1, (sc, hdc, dc) in next st, *sk 2 sts, (sc, hdc, dc) in next st *, rep from * to * all around the entire cardigan. Sl st to beg sc, fasten off and tidy up ends. 


Sleeves:

Using Colour A, Ch4, dc in same space, skip the dc that lays sideways and (dc, ch1, dc) into next space, *sk 1 sp, (dc, ch1, dc) into next space*, rep from * to * 10 times, sl st to beg ch4

Next Row:  ch3, 2dc in same “V” space, 3 dc into each “V” space around, sl st to beg ch3.

Next Row:  Sl st to centre dc of cluster of 3, ch4, dc in same st; (dc, ch1, dc) into centre dc of next cluster and in next 11 clusters, sl st to beg ch 4.

Next Row:  Ch3, 2dc in same space, 3dc in next “V” space, and into the following 10 “V” spaces, 1dc into next space, sl st to beg ch3 – this decreases to shape the sleeve slightly.

Next Row:  Ch4, 1dc in same st, (dc, ch1, dc) in each centre dc of clusters, all around, sl st to beg ch 4 (12 V’s)

Next Row:  Ch3, 2dc in same space, 3dc in next “V” space, and following 9 “V”s.  1dc in last “V” space, sl st to beg ch3.

Next Row:  Ch4, 1dc in same st, (dc, ch1, dc) in centre of next 3dc cluster, and in the following 9 clusters, sl st to beg ch 4 (11 V’s)

Work straight in pattern until sleeve measures 6” from underarm.

Fasten off, repeat for second sleeve.

Change to Colour B, attach yarn to centre bottom of armhole, ch1, sc in same st, sc around, sl st to beg sc
Next Row:  Ch1, *(sc, hdc, dc) in same st, sk2*, rep all around, sl st to beg sc.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Fasten off, tidy up ends.

Sew on 3 large buttons evenly spaced onto the left front, corresponding with holes already provided by the fabric. 



Happy Hollie Hat

With Colour A, make a magic ring, ch 3, work 8 dc into ring (9 dc)sl st to beg ch 3; alternatively, ch 4, sl st to beg chain to make a ring, ch 3, work 8 dc into ring, sl st to beg ch 3 (9 dc).

Next Row: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, (18 dc)

Next Row:  Ch 3, dc in same st, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat around, sl st to beg ch 3 (27 sts)

Next Row:  Ch 3, dc in same st, *1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat around, sl st to beg ch 3 (36 sts)

Next Row:  Ch 4, dc in same st, sk 1 space, *(dc, ch1, dc) in next space*, repeat to end, sl st to beg ch 4

Next Row:  Ch3, 2 dc in same space, *3dc in next “V” space*, repeat to end, sl st to beg ch 3.

Next Row:  Sl st to centre dc of cluster of 3, ch 4, dc in same st, (dc, ch1, dc) in centre dc of next cluster, repeat to end, sl st to beg ch4.

Repeat the last 2 rows until hat measures 6.5”-7”.

For a beanie, stop here and work 1 row of sc in each stitch around, then work the two Hat Edging rows.

For a cloche or sunhat, work as follows:

Next Row:  ch 1, sc in same st, *2 sc in next, 1 sc in next*; rep from * to * around, sl st to beg ch 1.
For a cloche, work 2 rows sc in each st around, for a floppy sunhat, work a few more rows, depending on how floppy you want the final brim to be.


Hat Edging:

Next Row:  Change to Colour B, work 1 more row of sc around

Next Row:  Ch1, (sc, hdc, dc) in same st, *sk 2 sts, (sc, hdc, dc) in next st*, repeat from * to * to end, sl st to beg ch 1. 

If you wish, and this is optional, you can work a row of reverse sc around the brim of the hat, to help give it more definition, or you can finish here, fasten off, and tidy up your ends.

Pretty up the hat with a button or bow, and you’re little princess is good to go! 

©AG Handmades 2014




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Friday, 27 June 2014

RAKJpatterns by Kristi Simpson: RAKJ Cares

RAKJpatterns by Kristi Simpson: RAKJ Cares: What IS  "RAKJcares"? It is just a simple way that we as a family, and a crochet community, can give back. RAKJ hosts events su...

Thursday, 26 June 2014

Annabel Toddler Dress 2-3 years



 


To fit age 2-3 years

Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.

Materials:
4.5mm hook
1-2 skeins worsted weight (aran/10ply) yarn (I used Stylecraft Special Aran)
Approx 6 yards yarn in red and white, or other colours of your choosing
I small button for the flower
2 small buttons for the back closure
A few beads for embellishment (make sure these are fixed on securely!  They are a choking risk for tiny children)

Abbreviations:
Dc = double crochet                                       Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet                             Hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
Beg = beginning                                              Ch = chain
Sl st = slip stitch                                             Sk = skip





Pattern

Using 4.5mm hook, work a double crochet foundation chain of 70; alternatively, chain 72, dc in 3rd chain from hook, and to end.  Join, being careful not to twist, to form a circle.  Work 3 rows of double crochet in total.

Next row:  Ch1, 2 sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg ch1.

Next Row:  Ch 3, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next stitch; (sk 2 sts, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next) to end.  Sl st to beg ch3

Next Row:  Slip stitch into the 1st “V” space (the ch1 space between dcs), (ch3, dc, ch1, 2dc) all in the same space.  Work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) into the middle of every “V” you made in the previous row, in the ch1 space.  Repeat to the end.  Sl st to beg ch 3.

Repeat the last row 2 more times (3 “V” rows in total).

Fold the piece in half with the starting point at the centre back.  Measure 3.5” down from the shoulder on each side.  You should have 3 “V”s within that 3.5”.  In the 4th V from the shoulder at the armhole, place a marker.  Place a marker at the exact same place on the other side.  These will mark where you will start the body of the dress.

Markers should be 3.5”-4” down from each shoulder and 10-11” apart width-wise, on the edge of the bottom of the yoke.  Repeat for the back of the yoke.


Now that you have your markers in place, 2 at the front of the work and 2 at the back, at the exact same places, continue working in “V”s to first marker, skip the stitches between the 1st and 2nd marker (this will create the armhole), carry on working in “V”s as before, until you come to the 3rd marker.  Skip all stitches between the 3rd and 4th marker (this will create your second armhole), and continue in “V”s to the end.  Sl st to beg ch 3.

Now continue working in rounds, in the “V” stitch pattern, until the work measures 16” from the shoulder.

Next Row:  Sl st to the middle space of the next “V” as before, ch 3, 4dc into same space, *5dc into next ch1 space (centre of the next “V”)*, rep from * to * to end.  Sl stitch to beg ch3, fasten off and tidy up ends.


Go back to the Neckline:

This time, working from the yoke upwards, on the inside of the centre back, attach yarn to the centre back, ch 2, 1hdc in next st and each st around.  Do not join.  Chain 5 and turn.

Next Row (now working from the outside), hdc in 3rd ch from hook, then hdc all around neckline, this time working hdc2tog in every 6th stitch, until you reach the last few stitches, then hdc straight to the end.  Turn.

Ch 2, hdc all around, decreasing with hdc2tog every 6th stitch, hdc in last st, turn, for the next 2 rows.
Next Row:  Ch 3, dc in next st, sk 1 st, 5dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st, sk 1, 5dc in next st, *sk 1, sc in next st, sk 1, 5dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, working 1dc in the last stitch.  Fasten off and tidy up ends, making sure the button flap at the back sits nicely where it meets the yoke.

Sew on 2 buttons on the other side of the back, so that the flap can be used as a button border (the hdc sts will work as buttonholes).




Sleeves:

Attach yarn to bottom centre of the armhole, ch3, dc, ch1, dc, all into the same space.  Working in the “V”s you made previously, work 3 rows of “V”s into the ch1 spaces, as before.

Next row:  Sl st to centre of next “V”, ch 3, 4dc in same space, *1sc in next “V”, 5dc in next “V”*, repeat from * to * around, making a total of 5 ”V”s and 5sc.  Sl st to beg ch 3, fasten off.

Repeat for other sleeve.

Flower: 

With first colour, Make a magic ring, 10 sc into ring, fasten off.  With second colour, attach yarn to any sc from previous row, *work (1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc) into the same stitch*, sk 1 st, rep from * to * to end (5 petals), sl st to beg sc to finish.  Fasten off, tidy up ends, and attach the flower to the front of the yoke, with a button or bead in the centre.

Tie braid:

Using approx. 4 yards of 2 colours together, take your trusty 4.5mm hook and work 140 chain.  (if this doesn’t work for you, just make more or less chain as you need to before cutting the yarn).  (Leave long ends).

Thread the tie through the last hdc row of the  yoke.  If you are going to attach beads, thread them onto the tails of the tie, then knot the ends firmly a few times to build up the knot, so that those pesky beads have no chance of coming off the tie.  These *must* be secure with small children.  Or leave them out.  Whatever you feel is safer. 

One more step – this is optional, but I like this dress with a pleat at the front.  To achieve this, simply draw the ribs together in the centre front, and neatly sew them together for a couple of inches so that they sit nicely at the front of the dress. 

Make sure all your ends are tidied up, and your dress is done!




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Wednesday, 25 June 2014

Yarn Terminology, US/UK/AU

There are so many names for yarns, and so many patterns, written by so many people in so many countries!

What yarn is called in one country is not always what it means in another country.

Here's a very short and simple chart to help you all identify which yarn and which needle/ hook to use.


USA
UK
Australia
Suggested needle (mm)
Laceweight
1 ply
2 ply
1.5–2.25 mm
Fingering
2 ply
3 ply
2.25– 3 mm
Sock
3 ply
3 ply
2.25— 3.25 mm
Sport
4 ply
5 ply
3.25— 3.75 mm
DK/Light Worsted
DK
8 ply
3.75— 4.5 mm
Worsted
Aran
10 ply
4.5— 5.5 mm
Bulky
Chunky
12 ply
5.5– 8 mm
Super Bulky
Super Chunky
14 ply
8 mm and up


Monday, 23 June 2014

Drawstring Beach Skirt



It began as a birthday gift....

I wanted something quick and simple for a friend who lives at the Ocean and spends a lot of time on the beach.

I thought maybe a swimsuit cover up skirt would be good, and so the idea was born.



This skirt is versatile and adaptable.

The one I made, with a drawstring waist, fits from 24” waist up to 40” waist and 40” hips
I made the Length 14” – about mid-thigh, just right for covering up a swimsuit, but the pattern is completely adaptable to any length; you can make it as long or as short as you wish.

An incredibly simple skirt to make, and it works up very quickly indeed. 

You can use any worsted weight yarn.  I used Stylecraft Special Aran, in Denim colour.  It would be lovely in Cotton for the Summer, although I personally prefer Acrylic as it has such a nice drape.




Drawstring Swimsuit Cover-up Skirt


Fits from 24” waist up to 38” waist and 40” hips

Length 14” – completely adaptable to any length

You will need 1-2 skeins Worsted Weight (aran/10ply) yarn, depending on how long you wish the skirt to be.  I used 1.5 skeins for 14” length.
5mm crochet hook for the skirt, 7mm hook for the drawstring
A Yarn needle for sewing up ends
A few beads for prettiness J


Abbreviations:
Dc – double crochet
Sc = single crochet
Ch = chain

Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.

Pattern:


With 5mm hook, work a double crochet foundation chain of 90 sts.  If you do not know how to work a foundation chain, you can simply chain 90 and work a row of double crochet over it.

If you wish to learn the foundation stitches, there is a good series of videos here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGPkRHF0rUw

90 Stitches gives a good base that, with a drawstring, fits from a very small waist up to 40”.  The hip sizing for this garment is up to 40”.  If your hips are larger, simply add stitches to the base chain.  

When you measure for the beginning chain, be sure to measure by hip size as this will be the widest part.  There is no requirement for a particular multiple of chain. 

Row One:  Join the chain/foundation row with a slip stitch into a circle, being careful not to twist it.  Ch 3, dc in next stitch and every stitch around.  Sl st to beg dc. 

Rows Two to Four:  Work 3 more row of double crochet to complete the waistband.  Again, this pattern is quite adaptable, and if you want a taller waistband, dc more rows accordingly.

Row Five:  ch 1.  Sc into same stitch as ch 1, *2 sc in next, sc in next*, all the way around.  The exact number of stitches is not important, just that you increase every other stitch.  Sl st to beg sc.

Row Six:  Chain 5 or 6, depending on how large you want your mesh holes.  I worked 5 chain. Skip 3 sts (watch out for those increases from the last row, they are easy to miss).  Sc into the 4th stitch.  *Chain 5, skip 3, sc into next*, rep from * to * around.  There is no need to sl st at the end of the row, as you can simply carry on into the beginning 5 chain loop, and work around and around to the desired length, then sl st at the centre back of the hemline at the end.

Continue in the mesh pattern (5 chain, sc in next loop) until you reach your desired length.  I made the skirt 14” long which comes to the middle of the thigh, which I think is perfect for wearing as a simple swimsuit cover on the beach.  Feel free to make it as long or as short as you wish!


Drawstring:

Once you have done the main body of the skirt, tidy up your ends, mark the centre front with a stitch marker and then you need to cut a very long piece of yarn to make a braid. 

You need around 12 – 15 yards of yarn, which you will then fold into three strands.  With the yarn folded together in 3, and leaving about 6 or 7 inches of a tail at the start, using the 7mm hook, make a long chain.  Leave about 6 or 7 inches free at the end. 

Thread the drawstring through the centre of the waistband, every 2 or 3 dc, bringing it back out at the centre front, and tie a bow.

Beading: 

Now find yourself a few pretty beads to match the skirt.  Thread these onto the ends of the chain, and tie a knot into the end to keep the beads in place.

As you can see – a very simple pattern, but a very versatile skirt!





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Saturday, 21 June 2014

Aunt Aggie's Fitted Diaper Cover



Aunt Aggie’s Fitted Diaper Cover

Size 0-6 months

Materials: 1 skein worsted weight (aran/10ply) yarn; 5mm crochet hook; Yarn needle; 2 buttons

Abbreviations:
Sc = single crochet; Hdc = half double crochet; Sl st = slip stitch; St = Stitch; Fphdc = front post half double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; Bphdc = back post half double crochet; bpdc = back post double crochet; Trc = treble crochet; Hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together; Fdcc = Foundation double crochet chain

Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart is included at the end.


  
Pattern:

Using 5mm hook, work foundation double crochet chain (55) to begin. If you do not know how to work foundation chain, chain 56 as normal, dc into 3rd ch from hook, and to end. (55)

Row 1: Ch 4, trc 18, (fptrc, bptrc) 8 times, 1 fptrc, trc to end, turn.

Row 2: Ch2, dc 17, (bpdc, fpdc) 8 times, 1 bpdc, dc to end, Fasten off.

Row 3: Reattach yarn at the 14th stitch from the right, ch2, hdc in next 5 sts, (fphdc, bphdc) 8 times, 1 fphdc, hdc in next 6 sts, turn.

Row 4: Ch2, hdc across to end, hdc in top of ch2. Turn.  (29)

Row 5: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 25, hdc in top of ch2.  Turn. (28)

Row 6: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc 25, (27) turn.

Row 7: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 24, (26) turn.

Row 8: Ch2, hd2tog, hdc 23, (25) turn.

Row 9: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 22, (24) turn.

Row 10: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 21, (23) turn.

Row 11: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 20, (22) turn.

Row 12: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 19, (21) turn.

Row 13: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 18, (20) turn.

Row 14: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 17, (19) turn.

Row 15: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 16, (18) turn.

Row 16: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 15, (17) turn.

Row 17:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 14, (16) turn

Row 18:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 13, (15) turn

Row 19:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 12, (14) turn

Row 20:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 11, (13) turn

Row 21:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 10, (12) turn

Row 22:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc 9, (11) turn

Rows 23-32: Ch 2, hdc across to end (11) turn.

Row 33: Ch2, 2 hdc in next  stitch, hdc 8, 2 hdc in last stitch (13) turn.

Row 34: Ch2, 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc 10, 2 hdc in last st (15) turn.

Row 35:  Ch2, hdc to end, turn. (15)

Row 36: Ch2, 2 hdc in next st, hdc 12, 2 hdc in last st (17) turn, do not turn.

Row 37: Ch1, sc in same st as ch1, sc 33 sts evenly along the side of the cover (34 sc), sl st into next st, turn.

Row 38: Sl st into next st, sc in next, then (fphdc, bphdc) 13 times, hdc in next 7 sts, turn.

Row 39: Ch2, hdc in next 5, (fphdc, bphdc) 13 times, sc in next, sl st in next, Fasten off.

Attach yarn at opposite side, where the waistband meets the side of the diaper cover, working on the Right Side.  Ch1, sc in same st as ch1, sc 33 sts evenly down side (34 sc), turn.

Row 40:  Ch2hdc in next 4 sts, (bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st) 13 times; hdc in next 2 sts, sl st to next space, Turn.

Row 41: sl st to the next st; (bphdc in next st, fphdc in next st) 13 times; hdc in next 5 sts; hdc in top of ch2; Do not Turn.

Row 42: Ch 1, sc2 in side of the last hdc worked; sc all around entire cover, working 3 sc into outer corners, and coming right back to the beg sc of this row.  (You do not have to, but I prefer, on this row, to keep the *front post* stitches in pattern by working over these with a fpsc, but simply sc over the back post stitches in the row.  This does help the elasticity of the middle back and the side of the legs, making for a snugger fit).  Sl st to beg sc, fasten off, tidy ends invisibly.

Sew on 2 buttons, and your diaper cover is complete.



©AG Handmades 2014






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