Wednesday, 30 July 2014

Oh So Easy Modular Crew Jumper



To fit ages 12-18 months (Worsted Weight yarn); 3-6 months (Light Worsted Weight Yarn)


A very simple sweater that is made in modular style - 4 rectangular pieces, with only slight shaping at the front neckline.  Using only single crochet, half double crochet and a little front post crochet on the rib (can be substituted with hdc if necessary), this sweater can be made by most crocheters.



The pattern includes 2 sizes, and also a conversion chart from US to UK terminology.

The neckline is wide, for an easy-on fit, and buttons can be sewn onto the back neckline rib to enable the shoulders to be fastened more snugly if desired.

Made with Acrylic yarn, this sweater is easy to put on and take off, and easily laundered.  A definite "go to" to keep in the little ones' wardrobe.

This, along with the Oh So Easy Tunic Sweater is part of the "Modular" range, using the most basic shapes.



Oh So Easy Crew Jumper
 

Materials

For the 12-18 months, 1 skein of each colour (Colour A), and (Colour B) or 2 skeins of a single colour in worsted weight yarn (aran/10ply); 5mm hook; yarn needle

For the 3-6 months, 1.5 skeins light worsted weight yarn (DK/8ply); 4.5mm hook; yarn needle

To fit  12-18 months;  Size:  Chest 20”-22”; Length from shoulder 14

To fit 3-6 months; Chest 18”-20”; Length from shoulder 11”-12”

**For both sizes, follow the same pattern but use the smaller hook for the smaller size.  The only place the pattern changes is at the ribbing, where hdc is used instead of dc in the smaller size.**

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; sc2tog = single crochet 2 together; fpdc = front post double crochet

I used two colours for 6-12 months, you don’t have to – if it is easier, just do it in one solid colour.

Main body parts: Both identical, A & B


 
 

 

Back and sleeve long section: C


 



Pattern:


For the main parts of the tunic/sweater (A & B) you will be working side to side.  It’s easier to do striping this way, as you only have to hold one colour at a time.

Parts A & B: (work both the same).

Row 1:  In Colour B, Foundation half double crochet 19 sts.  Alternatively, chain 20 sts, hdc into the third chain from the hook, and to the end.  Turn.  I usually use a foundation chain when working side to side and it gives a more elastic edge and doesn’t pull on one side.  If you work a normal chain, you might want to go up a hook size for making the chain, then go back to a 5mm for the hdc.

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc in next st and each st across (19).  Change to Colour A.

Each row from here to the end of the piece will be the same as Row 2, except for colour changes, which are as follows:

Rows 3,4 and 5:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B.

Rows 6 and 7:  As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 8 and 9:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B.

Rows 10, 11, 12:  As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 13, 14, 15:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 16, 17, 18:  As Row 2: Change to Colour A

Rows 19, 20, 21:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 22, 23: As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 24, 25:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 26, 27, 28:  As Row 2: Change to Colour A

Rows 29, 30:  As Row 2; Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part C:

Row 1:  Using Colour B, Foundation hdc 66. Alternatively, chain 67, hdc in third ch from hook, hdc to end (66).  Change to Colour A

Row 2: Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Rows 3 and 4:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 5, 6, 7:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 8: Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Rows 9, 10, 11:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Rows 12 and 13:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 14:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 15:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part D:

Row 1:  In Colour B, foundation hdc 66 sts.  Alternatively chain 67, hdc in the third chain from hook, and to end.  Change to Colour A.  Turn. (66)

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B.

Row 3:  Ch2, hdc to end

Row 4:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A.

Row 5:  Ch2, hdc to end.

Row 6:  Ch2, hdc to end.

Row 7:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 8:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 9:  Ch2, hdc to end.

Row 10:  Ch2 hdc in next 29 sts, turn.

Row 11:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 12:  Ch2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Row 13:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 14:  Ch2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog.  Change to Colour B

Row 15:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Second half of neckline:

Row 16: With Wrong Side facing, join Colour A to sleeve edge.  Ch2, hdc until 4 sts remain at centre.  Turn.

Row 17:  ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 18:  Ch2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog.  Turn.

Row 19:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end,  Turn. Change to Colour A

Row 20:  Ch2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, Change to Colour B

Row 21:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.  Fasten off.


Now is a good time to work a row of single crochet along the raw edges of the sleeves, and around the neckline on Part D.  When doing so, ch1 at right top edge, sc down the side sc2tog at the corner where it meets the front edge, sc along the front edge, sc2tog where it meets the side again, sc up to the top of the neck opening.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


You will now have 4 pieces. 

Assembly:

Fold Part C in half width-wise to find the centre point.  Place a stitch marker.  Fold Part A together lengthwise to find the centre point.  Match this with the centre point of Part C.  You should now have a T-shape. 

Working with RS facing together, whip stitch Parts A and C together, as neatly as you can, using only the back loops of each end stitch.  Match stitch for stitch to keep it all nice and even.

Fold Part B in half to find the mid point, place a marker.  Arrange Part D on top of this, so that the centre of Part D lines up with the centre of Part B.  Again, with right sides facing each other, whip stich along the edges to join Part B to the bottom edges of Part D.  You should now have another T-shape, with the neckline shaping in the centre.

Working again with Right Sides facing, place one T-shape on top of the other T-shape, hold in place with stitch markers if you need to, and whip stitch along the bottom edges of the sleeves.

Whip stitch along the top edges of the sleeves, joining it to the back section “C”, but this time, leave 1” unstitched on either side of neck shaping.

Your garment should now look like this:


Side Seams:  Whip stitch the side seams together, from the armhole to the bottom.  Fasten off.
Turn the garment so that the right side is now on the outside as it should be.

Edging and Sleeve Cuffs:

Bottom Edging:  With Colour B, attach yarn to side seam, Ch2, hdc around, sl st to beg ch2.

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc in next, hdc in next*, repeat around, sl st to beg Ch3.

Next Row:  Repeat previous row.  Fasten off.

Sleeve edges:  If you didn’t do so before, ch1 and work a row of sc around the sleeve edge.

Next Row:  Ch2, hdc around, working hdc2tog in every 5th stitch.  Sl st to beg ch2.

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc in next, hdc in next*; repeat around, sl st to beg Ch3.

Next Row:  Repeat Previous row.  Fasten off.


Neck Shaping: **for this part, use fpdc as instructed for 12-18 months, and for 3-6 months, use fphdc instead.**

Attach Colour B to the centre back of the neckline.  Assuming you already worked a row of single crochet around the neckline, proceed to “Next Row”, otherwise, ch1 and work  row of sc all around the neckline.  Sl st to beg ch1.

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc into nex sc, hdc into next*; repeat around, except when you reach the top corners of the front neckline, work 3hdc into that corner stitch.  Continue to work the rib, remembering to also work along the 1” spaces you left unsititched previously, and proceed in pattern until you reach the centre back.  Sl st to beg Ch3.

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc into next st, hdc into next*; repeat around, this time, work normally over those corner stitches, this will round” the edge.  Sl st to beg Ch3.  Fasten off.

You can, if you wish, add two buttons onto the back ribbing at the neckline to enable the wider part of the neckline to be fastened together.

Make sure all your ends are tidied up and woven in, and your sweater is complete!  You can leave it plain, as it is, or embellish it as you please.

©AG Handmades 2014



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Monday, 28 July 2014

Oh so Easy Modular Tunic/Sweater

With the colder weather surely coming, I decided to make a tunic/sweater for a toddler grandchild of mine.  I have also had it in mind for a while to try to make something that is simple to make, and consists of just a few easy to make pieces sewn together.  Thus the modular tunic/sweater was born.



Five simple rectangular pieces, only two with a few rows of decreasing to make the "V" neck, and put together to make a warm and cosy sweater.   And they all fit together like this:



Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.


Oh So Easy Tunic Sweater

A very easy sweater/tunic – made from 5 easy shapes, sewn together.  Using only single crochet and half double crochet throughout, it is simple, and works up really quickly.

Materials1 skein of each colour used (Colour A (mine was Cream), and B (mine was Blue)), or 2 skeins of a single colour; 5mm hook; yarn needle

To fit  12-18 months;  SizeChest 20”-22”; Length from shoulder 15”-16”

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; sc2tog = single crochet 2 together

I have used two colours, you don’t have to – if it is easier, just do it in one solid colour.

Main body parts: Both identical, A & B


Back and sleeve long section: C;       Front Sleeve and V neck sections, D & E





Pattern:

For the main parts of the tunic/sweater (A & B) you will be working side to side.  It’s easier to do striping this way, as you only have to hold one colour at a time.

Parts A & B: (work both the same).

Row 1:  In Colour B, Foundation half double crochet 27 sts.  Alternatively, chain 28 sts, hdc into the third chain from the hook, and to the end.  Turn.  I usually use a foundation chain when working side to side and it gives a more elastic edge and doesn’t pull on one side.  If you work a normal chain, you might want to go up a hook size for making the 27 chain, then go back to a 5mm for the hdc.

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc in next st and each st across (27).

Change to Colour A.

Each row from here to the end of the piece will be the same as Row 2, except for colour changes, which are as follows:

Rows 3,4 and 5:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B.

Rows 6 and 7:  As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 8 and 9:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B.

Rows 10, 11, 12:  As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 13, 14, 15:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 16, 17, 18:  As Row 2: Change to Colour A

Rows 19, 20, 21:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 22, 23: As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 24, 25:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 26, 27, 28:  As Row 2: Change to Colour A

Rows 29, 30:  As Row 2; Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part C:

Row 1:  Using Colour B, Foundation hdc 66; Alternatively, chain 67, hdc in third ch from hook, hdc to end (66).  Change to Colour A

Row 2: Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Rows 3 and 4:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 5, 6, 7:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 8: Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Rows 9, 19, 11:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Rows 12 and 13:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 14:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 15:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Parts D and E are worked the same, but one will be flipped over so as to make the “V” of the neckline. 

Row 1:  In Colour B, foundation hdc 33 sts.  Alternatively chain 34, hdc in the third chain from hook, and to end.  Change to Colour A.  Turn. (33)

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B.

Row 3:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end

Row 4:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A.

Row 5:  Ch2, hdc to end.

Row 6:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.

Row 7:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 8:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 9:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.

Rows 10 and 11:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 12:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.

Row 13:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 14:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 15:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


You will now have 5 pieces.  Once you have weaved in all your ends, it’s a good idea at this point to either single crochet along the raw edges, or slip stitch along them.  This will give you a nice neat edge with stitches you match up to whip stitch together.


Assembly:

Fold Part C in half width-wise to find the centre point.  Place a stitch marker.  Fold Part A together lengthwise to find the centre point.  Match this with the centre point of Part C.  You should now have a T-shape. 

Working with RS facing together, whip stitch Parts A and C together, as neatly as you can, using only the back loops of each end stitch.  Match stitch for stitch to keep it all nice and even.

Fold Part B in half to find the mid point, place a marker.  Arrange parts D and E on top of this, so that the bottom part of the “V” meets with the centre point of part B.  Again, with right sides facing each other, whip stich along the edges to join Part B to the bottom edges of Parts D and E.  You should now have another T-shape, with a “V” in the centre.

Working again with Right Sides facing, place one T-shape on top of the other T-shape, hold in place with stitch markers if you need to, and whip stitch along the bottom edges of the sleeves.

Whip stitch along the top edges of the sleeves, joining it to the back section “C”, but this time, leave 1” unstitched.

Your garment should now look like this:




Side Seams:  Whip stitch the side seams together, from the armhole to the bottom, leaving 2” at the bottom of each side unsewn.  Fasten off.

Turn the garment so that the right side is now on the outside as it should be.


Edging and Sleeve Cuffs:

Bottom Edging:  With Colour A, attach yarn to centre back, ch1, sc to end, work 3sc in the corner, turn and work sc up the open part of the seam, working sc2tog into the 2 sts where the front and back meet (one stitch from the front and one from the back) to make a nice “V” there, sc down to the edge of the front, work 3sc into the corner st, sc across the bottom of the front, 3sc into the corner, sc up the opening, again working sc2tog in the 2 sts where front and back meet, sc down to the edge, 3sc in the corner, and back to where you began.  Sl st to beg sc, fasten off and weave in ends invisibly.

V-Neck Edging:  Attach Colour A to the centre back of the neckline, ch1, sc along to where front and back meet, continue to sc into the front part, working 3sc into the corner at the top of the “V” at the front; sc down to the centre of the “V” and it is important here that when you reach the bottom, you work sc2tog into the last stitches either side of the “V”, so that you don’t have a “bump” and the “V” lays nice and flat.  Continue to sc up the other side of the “V”, working 3sc into the top corner, sc across to where front and back meet.  Continue to sc along the back, sl st to beg sc.  Ch1, repeat for a second round, making sure that you keep that “V” nice and flat at the front by working sc2tog there.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Sleeve Cuffs:

Fasten Colour A to the edge of the sleeve at the underarm, ch1, work one row of sc, change to Colour B when you slip stitch to beg sc. 

Row 2:  Ch1, sc all around, change to colour A on the last slip stitch.

Row 3: Ch1, sc all around, change to Colour B on the last slip stitch.

Row 4: ch1, sc all around, slip stitch to beg sc, fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat for the other sleeve cuff.

Make sure all your ends are tidied up and woven in, and Voila!  Your tunic sweater is complete!  You can leave it plain, as it is, or embellish it as you please.  

©AG Handmades 2014

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Sunday, 27 July 2014

Wrap it Up: How to Finish Your Crochet Like a Pro

Good tips here on finishing your project.  It's easy to rush to complete something, but those final steps make the world of difference.

Wrap it Up: How to Finish Your Crochet Like a Pro:



'via Blog this'

Saturday, 26 July 2014

Lightweight Boys' Buttoned Cardigan


 


In sizes 0-3 months and 3-6 months

This is a lovely textured cardigan, suitable for all weathers, but particularly for slightly warmer days when you don't want anything too heavy.

The pattern works up very quickly, and is easy to make.

It uses a classic Cross-Stitch Cluster, for the main body and sleeves of the garment - instructions are given.

Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.


Lightweight Cross-stitch Buttoned cardigan



          

Materials:   1 Skein light worsted/dk/8ply yarn; 4mm and 4.5mm hooks; yarn needle; 6 buttons

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; hdc = half double crochet; x-st = cross-stitch cluster; sl st – slip stitch; fpdc = front post double crochet; bpdc = back post double crochet; ch = chain

Gauge = 12 dc and 8 rows (dc) on 4.5mm hook = 4”, 16 dc and 8 rows (dc) on 4mm hook = 4”.

Instructions are the same for both sizes, except for 0-3 months, use a 4mm hook and for 3-6 months use a 4.5mm hook.

  (1)   Using 4mm hook for 0-3 months and 4.5mm hook for 3-6 months, chain 39, Hdc in 3rd st from the hook, and to the end.  Turn. (37)
  
  (2)   Ch2, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 6, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next 11, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next 6, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 5. Turn.

  (3)   Ch3, dc in next 4 sts, 3dc in next st, dc in next 7, 3dc in next, dc in next 12, 3dc in next, dc in next 7, 3dc in next, dc in next 6.  Turn

  (4)   Ch3, dc in next 6 sts, 3dc in next, dc in next 9, 3 dc in next, dc in next 14, 3dc in next, dc in next 9, 3dc in next, dc in next 6.  Turn.

  (5)   Ch3, dc in next 6 sts,  3dc in next, dc in next 11, 3dc in next, dc in next 16, 3dc in next, dc in next 11, 3dc in next, dc in next 8.  Turn.

  (6)   Ch3, dc in next 8, 3dc in next, dc in next 13, 3dc in next, dc in next 18, 3dc in next, dc in next 13, 3dc in next, dc in next 8.  Turn.

  (7)   Ch3, dc in next 8, 3dc in next, dc in next 15, 3dc in next, dc in next 20, 3dc in next, dc in next 15, 3dc in next, dc in next 10.  Turn.

  (8)   Ch3, dc in next 10, 3dc in next, dc in next 17, 3dc in next, dc in next 22, 3dc in next, dc in next 17, 3dc in next, dc in next 10.  Turn.

  (9)   Ch3, dc in next 10, 3dc in next, dc in next 19, 3dc in next, dc in next 24, 3dc in next, dc in next 19, 3dc in next, dc in next 12.  Turn.
  
  (10)  Ch3, dc in next 12, 3dc in next, dc in next 21, 3dc in next, dc in next 26, 3dc in next, dc in next 21, 3dc in next, dc in next 12.  Turn.  (105)

  (11)    Ch2, hdc in next 13, ch 6, skip the next 23 sts, hdc in next 30, ch 6, skip next 23, hdc in next 15.  Turn.

  (12)  Ch2, hdc in each st across, including hdc into each of the ch6 under the armholes.  Turn. (69 hdc & beg ch2)

  (13)   Ch3, *skip next stitch, work dc into the next and then back into the skipped stitch (x-st cluster)*, repeat from * to * to end, , dc in top of ch2 from prev row.  Turn. (34 x-st clusters, ch3 and dc at the end)

  (14)  Repeat row 13 until work measures 5” (13cm) from armhole.

  (15)  Ch 3, dc in each st across, dc in top of ch3 from prev row.

  (16)  Ch3, *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next*,  rep from * to * to end, dc in top of ch3 from prev row

  (17)  Ch3, *bpdc in next st, fpdc in next*, rep from * to * to end, dc in top of ch3 from prev row.


Button border:

  1.       Ch1, work 36 sc evenly up the side of the front to the neckline.  Turn.

  2.       Ch1, sc  back down the front to the bottom.

  3.       Ch1, sc up to the neckline.

  4.       Ch1, sc down to the hem

  5.       Ch1, sc up to the neckline, this time, work 3sc into the corner st, and sc into next 3 sts on the top of the buttonband.  Sl st to main part of neckline.  Fasten off.


Buttonhole border.
Starting at the neckline on the other front side, working on RS, attach yarn to top edge, ch1, sc 36 evenly down to hemline, making sure you have the same number of sc on this side as you have on the button band on the opposite side

  1.      Ch1, sc back up to the neckline.  Turn.
  
  2.      Ch1, sc 2, *ch2, sk 2 st, sc 4*, 5 times, ch2, sk 2, sc 2 to end. Turn. 

  3.      Ch1, sc to end, working 2 sc into the ch2 buttonholes you just made, sl st across the 3 rows of the top of the buttonhole band.  Turn.

  4.      Ch1, sc across the top of the button band, working 3sc into top corner st, sc back down to hemline, 3sc into last st at the corner, sc around hemline, back to the bottom edge of the button band.  Work an extra sc into the corner st, to round it off, Fasten off, weave in ends invisibly.


Sleeves (both the same)

Attach yarn to the centre of the underarm, in the centre sp of the 6 hdc, Ch3, dc in the space *before* the ch3 (x-st cluster), skip 2 spaces, dc in next and in the 2nd skipped st (x-st cluster with a decrease), *sk 1, x-st cluster over next 2 sts* 14 times, sl st to dc of 1st x-st cluster.

Sl st back to the centre of the armhole if you need to, (keep re-centering like this each row, to keep the joining seam under the arm), Ch3, dc in space prev to ch3, sk 2 sts, dc into the next st, and into the next previously skipped space, *sk 1, x-st cluster over next 2 sts* 13 times, sl st to beg x-st as before.

Centre yourself again to the bottom centre of the armhole.

Ch3, dc in the previous space, sk 2 sts, x-st into the next 2 sts, *sk 1, x-st cluster* 12 times, sl st to beg x-st cluster.

Ch3, dc in prev sp, *sk 1, x-st over next 2 sts* 13 times, sl st to beg x-st cluster.

Repeat the last row until sleeve measures 5” for 0-3 months, 5.5” for 3-6 months, from the underarm.

Cuffs:

Ch3, dc around, working dc2tog into every 4th st, sl st to beg ch3.

Ch3, *fpdc in next, bpdc in next*, rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg ch3.

Ch3, rep previous row.

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Collar

Attach yarn to right front at the inside of edge of the button border, ch1, sc 6, 2sc in next, sc 6, 2 sc in next, sc 11, 2sc in next, sc 6, 2 sc in next, sc 6, Turn.

Ch1, hdc in same st, hdc 6, 2hdc in next, hdc 6, 2 hdc in next, hdc 13, 2hdc in next, hdc 6, 2hdc in next, hdc 7.  Turn.

Ch1, hdc in same st, hdc 7, 2hdc in next, hdc 7, 2hdc in next, hdc 13, 2hdc in next, hdc 7, 2hdc in next, hdc in 8.  Turn.

Ch1, hdc in same st, hdc to end. Turn.

Ch 1, sc in same st, sc to end, sl st down edge of collar, turn.

Ch1, sc in same st, sc all around collar edge, working 3sc into corner sts, fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew on buttons corresponding to the 6 buttonholes.



©AG Handmades 2014



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