Saturday, 30 August 2014

Clara Slouchy Hat and Neckwarmer


 

This pattern uses the Crossed Puff Stitch to create a pretty textured weave, while retaining the looseness of the garment, so that the hat remains nice and slouchy.

The yarn I used was Marriners Aran with 20% wool, but any type of worsted weight yarn will do.

The pattern is fairly easy to accomplish and works up very quickly.


Clara Slouchy Hat and Neckwarmer
 
Materials:  2 skeins any worsted weight yarn (aran/10ply); 5mm hook, 4.5mm hook, yarn needle, 5 buttons

Size:  Adult; Hat Circumference: 20”-21”; Hat height:  11.5” crown to brim;  Neckwarmer:  30.5” x 6.5”

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; fphdc = front post half double crochet; fpsc = front post single crochet; ch = chain; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; rep = rep; fsc = foundation single crochet chain.

Special Stitch:  Crossed Puff Stitch:  Skip one st, yarn over, Insert hook in the next st, draw yarn through, yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, draw yarn through, yarn over, pull yarn through 3 loops, yarn over, pull yarn through last 2 loops. Go back to the stitch you just skipped and work the same puff stitch again.  This completes the crossed puff stitch combination.

Gauge: 5 Crossed Puff Stitch Clusters and 5 rows of clusters on 5mm hook = 4”

Instructions are written in US terms; a conversion chart to UK terms is included at the end.

Neckwarmer:   

To begin:  Using a 5mm hook, make a foundation single crochet of 14 sts.  Turn.

Row 1:  Ch 3, *Crossed Puff Stitch over next two stitches*; rep to end.  Dc in last st.  Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 3, *Crossed Puff Stitch over next two stitches* (on the top of the two puff stitches from the previous row); rep to end,  Dc in last st.  Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until work measures 30”.

Next Row:  Ch1, sc across short edge, turn.

Next Row:  Ch1, sc in first st, ch 3, sk 2, sc in next 3 sts, ch 3, sk 2, sc in next 3 sts, ch 3, sk 2, sc in last st; turn.

Next Row:  Ch1, sc in first st, hdc 3 into ch3 sp; sc into next 3 sts, hdc 3 into ch 3 sp; sc into next 3 sts; hdc into next ch 3 sp; sc into last st; do not turn.

Next Row:  Ch 1, sc in same st; sc all around the rest of the neckwarmer, working (sc, ch1, sc) into the corner sts; sl st to beg sc at the final corner.  Fasten off and weave in ends.  Sew on 3 buttons to match where the buttonholes meet the bottom left ege of the neckwarmer as you would cross it over in front of you.



Hat: 

From beginning to end, unless specified in the pattern row, the hat is worked in the round.  Do not join at the end of each row; place a marker and keep moving it up as you go.  I worked it this way to avoid a back seam.  

Row 1:  Using 5mm hook, make a magic ring; Ch2, make 9 dc into the ring.  Do not join. (9)

Row 2:  2 dc into every stitch around (18)

Row 3:  2 dc into next st; 1 dc into next st; rep to end (27)

Row 4:  2 dc into next st, 1 dc into next 2 sts; rep to end (36)

Row 5:  2 dc into next st, 1 dc into next 3 sts; rep to end (45)

Row 6:  2 dc into next st, 1 dc into next 4 sts; rep to end (54)

Row 7:  Ch 3,  Crossed Puff Stitch over the next st and the stitch in which you just worked the ch3;  *Crossed Puff Stitch over next two stitches*; rep to end.  Sl st to beg ch 3.

Row 8:  Ch 3,  Crossed Puff Stitch over the next st and the stitch in which you just worked the ch3; *Crossed Puff Stitch over next two stitches* (on the top of the two puff stitches from the previous row); rep to end.  Sl st to beg Ch 3.

Repeat Row 8 until hat measures 9” from crown.

Next Row:  Ch1, sc all around

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc in next st; dc in next st*; repeat to end, finishing on fpdc.

Repeat previous row until rib measures 2”.

Change to 4.5mm hook, work in rib for 2 more rows.

Finish off by working in rib in hdc over the next 2 sts; sc in the next st, and slip stitch over the next 2 sts.  Fasten off and weave in ends.  Sew two buttons onto the hat.

Enjoy your new hat and neckwarmer!
             
©AG Handmades 2014





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Thursday, 28 August 2014

Chunky Ribbed *Reversible* Fingerless Gloves


 


Crocheted in a ribbed stitch, this results in a thick, padded texture, which is entirely reversible.

The pattern is worked in the round, so there are no seams.

The thumb section is slightly widened for a good snug fit, then the glove is narrowed again at the palm to avoid bagginess.  We want them warm and cosy, right?  :)



 


Reversible Fingerless Gloves      

A fun project which results in gloves which have a front post vertical rib on the outside, and a resulting horizontal rib on the inside.  These gloves, worked in the round, are seamless and can be turned inside out to give them an entirely different look.

Work both Women’s and Men’s the same – except work the numbers in brackets for a larger man’s size if you need to.

If working in the round, with no seam you only need to work 2 of the “Right Glove” as they will end up the same, you will need to work Right and Left if you are joining with a seam.


Materials:  1 skein Chunky (Bulky/6) yarn; 5mm hook, yarn needle

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; fpsc m= front post single crochet; sl st = slip stitch; sk = skip; rep = repeat.

Gauge:  11 sts and 12 rows with 5mm hook on fpdc = 4”

Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart to UK terms is included at the end.

Right Glove:

Row 1:  With 5mm hook, foundation single crochet 23 (25), join to form a loop (if you cannot work foundation single crochet, make 24 (26) chain, sc into 2nd chain from hook, and to end.  Join to form a loop.)

Row 2: Fpdc in each stitch to end. Do not join, place a marker to keep track of the beginning of each row and keep working in the round. (If beginning the next round leaves you with a small “hole” don’t worry, that is easily brought together with a stitch with your yarn needle at the end.)

Rows 3-13:  Fpdc around to end.

Row 14:  Fpdc 19 (20), 2fpdc in next st, fpdc to end.

Row 15:  Fpdc around to end.

Row 16:  Fpdc 19 (20), 2 fpdc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc to end.

Rows 17-19: Fpdc around to end.

Row 20:  Fpdc 20 (21), ch 3 (4), sk 3 (4), fpdc to end.

Row 21:  Fpdc around, working 3 (4) dc into ch 3 (4) space, fpdc to end.

Row 22:  Fpdc to end.

Row 23: Fpdc 20 (21), fpdc2tog twice in next 4 sts; fpdc to end.

Row 24-26:  Fpdc to end.

Row 27:  Fpsc to end.  Sl st in the next stitch or two, fasten off and weave in ends.


Left Glove:

Row 1:  With 5mm hook, foundation single crochet 23 (25), join to form a loop (if you cannot work foundation single crochet, make 24 (26)chain, sc into 2nd chain from hook, and to end.  Join to form a loop.)

Row 2: Fpdc in each stitch to end. Do not join, place a marker to keep track of the beginning of each row and keep working in the round.

Rows 3-13:  Fpdc around to end.

Row 14:  Fpdc 4 (5), 2fpdc in next st, fpdc to end.

Row 15:  Fpdc around to end.

Row 16:  Fpdc 4 (5), 2 fpdc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc to end.

Rows 17-19: Fpdc around to end.

Row 20:  Fpdc 5 (6), ch 3 (4), sk 3 (4), fpdc to end.

Row 21:  Fpdc around, working 3 (4) dc into ch 3 (4) space, fpdc to end.

Row 22:  Fpdc to end.

Row 23: Fpdc 4 (5), fpdc2tog twice in next 4 sts; fpdc to end.

Row 24-26:  Fpdc to end

Row 27:  Fpsc to end.  Sl st in the next stitch or two, fasten off, and weave in ends.


©AG Handmades 2014



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Crossed Ripple Slouchy Hat and Neckwarmer

Here are two versions of the same hat and neckwarmer

The first is a tightly textured stitch, making a good solid hat and neckwarmer for the coldest weather.


The second is a more loosely textured and more slouchy stitch, making the same hat and scarf to sit with more drape and slouch than the first.

Both are made with with a crossed ripple stitch; with chunky (bulky) yarn.   Using a 7mm through to a 5mm hook, these items work up really quickly.



The pattern is labelled "Intermediate" difficulty, but I would suggest giving it a go, because once you have the basic stitch, it is very simple and repetitive.

You will need:  2-3 skeins Chunky (Bulky/12ply) yarn; a yarn needle, 2 buttons, and a 7mm, 6mm, 5.5mm and 5mm hook. 






Crossed Ripple Slouch and Neckwarmer
Two versions included: a tightly woven version, and a looser, slouchier version
In Pink, the more tightly woven set:
        
In Purple, the looser, slouchier set:
          
Difficulty:  Intermediate


Materials:  2 skeins Chunky Yarn (Bulky/6); 7mm hook, 6mm hook, 5.5mm hook, 5mm hook, yarn needle, 2 buttons. (Note: this design uses a lot of yarn!  I have said 2 skeins but came right to the end of the second skein on the slouchier hat and neckwarmer, with only an inch or two yarn to spare, so be prepared that you may need an extra skein.

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; sl st = slip stitch; sk = skip; sts = stitches; rep = repeat; beg = beginning; trc = treble crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; fptrc = front post treble crochet; hdc = half double crochet.

Gauge:  10 sts and 7 rows on 7mm hook, working hdc = 4”

Finished Measurements: Hat Circumference 21”-22”; Hat Height 11”; Neckwarmer 30” x 6”

**Instructions are written in US terms; a conversion chart for UK terms in included**


**Two versions of the hat and neck warmer set can be made with this pattern – the more dense and tightly woven set, instructions highlighted in yellow, or the looser, more slouchier set, instructions highlighted in blue.**


Hat

Row 1:  For both versions, using 7mm hook, make a magic ring; Ch2, make 8 hdc into the ring.  Do not join, place a marker and keep working in the round, moving marker up every row to keep your place.

Row 2:  2 hdc into every stitch around (16)

Row 3:  2hdc into next st; 1 hdc into next st; rep to end (24)

Row 4:  2hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 2 sts; rep to end (32)

Row 5:  2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 3 sts; rep to end (40)

Row 6:  2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 4 sts; rep to end (48)

Row 7:  2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 5 sts; rep to end (56)

Row 8:  2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 6 sts; rep to end (64)

Row 9:  (Tightly textured version):  1dc in next st, *sk 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, 1 dc in 1st of the two skipped stitches*; rep to end.

Row 9:  (Slouchier version):  1 dc in next st, *sk 2 sts, 1trc in next st, ch1, 1trc in 1st of the two skipped stitches* rep to end.

Row 10(both versions):  1 sc in every st and ch sp to end of row. (64)

Row 11:  (Tightly textured version):  1dc in next st, *sk 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch1, fpdc around dc below the first of 2 sc just skipped, rep from* to end of row.

Row 11:  (Slouchier version):  1trc in next st, *sk 2 sts, 1trc in next st, ch1, fptrc around trc below the first of 2 sc just skipped, rep from* to end of row.

Rep rows 10 and 11 to 7”.

Change to 6mm hook and work for another 2” (or more if you want a longer slouch)

Change to 5mm hook

Single crochet around, to end.

Next 8 rows:  Bpsc for 8 rows to create that “knitted” look on the band - work this fairly loosely as it does tighten up the stitch.

On the last row, finish with a few slip stitches into the back of the work to even off the edge.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Neckwarmer

Row 1:  Using 5.5mm hook, make 71 chain.  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and to end, turn.

Row 2:  (Tightly textured version): Ch 3, 1 dc in next st, *sk 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, ch1, 1 dc in 1st skipped st* rep to last 2 sts; dc in next 2 sts, turn.

Row 2:  (Looser Textured Version): Ch 4, 1 trc in next st, *sk 2 sts, 1trc in next st, ch1, 1trc in 1st skipped st* rep to last 2 sts; trc in next 2 sts, turn.

Row 3:  (both versions):  Ch 1, sc in each st across (70)

Row 4:  (Tightly textured version):  Ch 3, 1 dc in next st, *sk 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, ch1, fpdc around dc below the first of 2 sc just skipped, rep from* to last 2 sts; 1 dc in each of the last 2 sts. Turn

Row 4:  (Loosely textured version):  Ch4, 1trc in next st, *sk 2 sts, 1trc in next st, ch1, fptrc around trc below the first of 2 sc just skipped, rep from* to last 2 sts; 1 trc in each of the last 2 sts. Turn

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 (for whichever version you are working) until the work measures at least 6”, ending after a single crochet row.  Turn.

Next Row:  Ch1, sc into same corner st, sc along all four edges, working (sc, ch1, sc) into each corner st.  Sl st to beg sc, fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew on 2 buttons where one edge meets the other as it folds over in front when worn.

©AG Handmades 2014




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Tuesday, 26 August 2014

Perfectly Pretty Baby Beanie




I made this pattern as an experiment, to see how things worked out with different yarns, using the same pattern and the same hook.

The results, although fairly predictable, were as written.  The lighter yarn produces a newborn size.  The slightly heavier yarn produced one size larger.  I like the variation, and I like how the yarns change the look of the stitches in the very same design.

For the newborn, you will need about 75 yards of light worsted (dk/8ply); for 3-6 months, you will need about 100 yards of worsted weight (aran/10ply); a 4mm hook for both; a yarn needle, and some sort of embellishment if you wish, like a tiny ribbon or button.

It's been a fun project, I hope you enjoy the result.


Perfectly Pretty Beanie
 
Sizes:  Newborn and 3-6 months

Materials:  For Newborn: about 75 yards (25g) light worsted (DK/8ply) yarn; For 3-6 months, 1 skein worsted weight  (aran/10ply) yarn; yarn needle; a little ribbon bow, 4mm hook.

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sk = skip; sl st = sl stitch; rep = repeat; beg = beginning.

Measurements:  Hat circumference 12” -13”; hat height 5.5” (Newborn); Hat Circumference 12.5”-14”; hat height 6.5” (3-6 months)

Gauge:  16 sts and 16 rows single crochet with 4mm hook = 4”

**Instructions are the same for newborn and for 3-6 months, except the yarn used and the final length of the hat before finishing off.**


Pattern is written in US terms; a chart for conversion to UK terms is included at the end.


Instructions:

Row 1: With 4mm hook, make a magic ring.  Ch2, hdc 7 into the ring, sl st to beg ch2.

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc in same st; 2 hdc in every stitch around, sl st to beg ch2. (14)

Row 3:  Ch2, hdc in same st; 1 hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, Join with beg Ch2.  (21)

Row 4:  Ch2, hdc in same st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts*; rep from * to * to end, Join with beg Ch2.  (28)

Row 5: Ch2, hdc in same st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts*; rep from * to * to end, Join with beg Ch2.  (35)

Row 6:  Ch2, hdc in same st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts*; rep from * to * to end, Join with beg Ch2.  (42)

Row 7: Ch2, hdc in same st; 1 hdc in next 5 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts*; rep from * to * to end, Join with beg Ch2.  (49)

Row 8:  Ch 4, dc in same st; ch 2, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; *ch2, sk 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) into next st; ch2, sk 3 sts, sc in next st*; rep from * to * to last 3 sts; ch 2, sk 3 sts, dc in same st as beg ch4, ch1, sl st to beg ch4.

Row 9: Ch1, sc  in same st as ch1, ch2, sk 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) into next sc, *ch2, sk3, sc into centre dc of (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) cluster, ch2, sk 3, (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) into next sc*; rep from * to * last 3 sts; ch2, sk 3 sl st to beg sc.

Row 10: Ch 4, dc in same st; ch 2, sk 3 sts, sc in centre dc of (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) cluster; *ch2, sk 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) into next sc; ch2, sk 3 sts, sc in centre dc of (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) cluster *; rep from * to * to last 3 sts; ch 2, sk 3 sts, dc in same st as beg ch4, ch1, sl st to beg ch4.

Repeat Rows 9 and 10 until hat measures 5” for newborn, 6” for 3-6 months.

Next Row:  Ch1, sc into same stitch and in each stitch around, making sure you have the 49 you began with before the main stitch pattern. Sl st to beg sc.

Next Row:  Ch1, sc around, this time working 2sc into the centre st directly above the centre dc of each 3 dc cluster.  Join to beg sc.

Repeat the previous row once more.

Fasten off, weave in ends, and sew on a little ribbon bow.   Stand back and admire your Perfectly Pretty Baby Beanie!

                                                                                                   ©AG  Handmades 2014



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"Charlotte" Beanie/ Stargazer Slouch

And so the  Charlotte Infinity Scarf  gets an accompaniment!

The Charlotte Beanie/Stargazer Slouch.

First up is the slouch hat - Nice and baggy with a defined "star" shape at the back.


As you see, you can make this hat with a solid pointed back section, which stands out when worn. The pattern also includes instructions on how to "tone down" those points, in case you wish a more rounded hat.


And, if you wish a traditional beanie, the pattern has instructions for this also.



Charlotte Beanie/Stargazer Slouch
 

Materials: 1 skein Worsted Weight yarn in each of 3 Colours; I used Rose (Colour A), Plum (Colour B), and Cream (Colour C). 4.5mm and 5mm hook; yarn needle, 1 wooden button.

Abbreviations: sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sk = skip; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; ch = chain; rep = repeat.

Gauge:  12 sc and 20 rows sc = 4”

Dimensions: Hat circumference:  Beanie: 20”; Slouchy: 22”; Beanie Height 8.5”; Slouch height 10”


**Pattern is written in US terms, a chart to convert to UK terms is included at the end.**


**Note:  for either hat, if you wish to “tone down” the star shape at the crown, stagger your increases over the first 6 rows (beanie) and 8 rows (slouch) to avoid the points. For the Stargazer Slouch I deliberately kept those points by working each increase into the same “V” from the previous row to emphasise that star shape at the back of the hat.  This is optional.**


Beanie:

Row 1:  With 5mm hook and Colour A, make a magic ring.  Ch2, hdc 9 into ring, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 2:  Ch2, 2 hdc into each stitch around (18) Change to Colour B

Row 3:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st*; rep from * to * around, 1hdc into last st, join.  (27)

Row 4:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into the next 2 sts; 2hdc into next st* rep from * to * to last 2 sts, 1 hdc into each of the last 2 sts; join.  (36)

Row 5:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into next 3 sts, 2 hdc into next st* rep from * to * to last 3 sts, 1 hdc into each of the last 3 sts, join.  (45) Change to Colour C

Row 6:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into next 4 sts, 2 hdc into next st* rep from * to * to last 4 sts, 1 hdc into each of the last 4 sts. join.  (54)

Row 7:  Ch 2, hdc 3, *sk1 hdc 7, ch 2, hdc 7**, sk1, hdc 7*;  rep from * to *, finishing last repeat at **; sk1, hdc to end, sl st to beg ch 2.  Change to Colour A

Row 8:  C h2, hdc 3, sk1 hdc 6, *(hdc, ch1, hdc) in nxt space, hdc 6**, sk1, hdc 6*  rep from * to *, finishing last rep at **, sk1, hdc in next 3, sl st to beg ch 2

**note:  if you want the chevrons to be more pronounced, work (hdc, ch2, hdc) where indicated, instead of (hdc, ch1, hdc).  I worked (hdc, ch2, hdc) on the slouch, and (hdc, ch1, hdc) on the beanie**

Row 9:  Rep Row 8.  Change to Colour B

Rows 10-11:  Rep Row 8 twice, Change to colour C

Row 12-13:  Rep Row 8 twice, Change to colour A

Rows 14-15:  Rep row 8 twice, Change to colour B 

Rows 16-17:  Rep Row 8 (twice); Change to Colour A

Row 18: Ch1, sc around, sl st to beg ch1. Turn.

Row 19: As row 18. Turn.

Row 20:  Ch1, sc in next 32 sts, chain 6. Turn. 

Row 21:  Ch1, sc in 2nd ch from hook and around hat to end, but do not join.  Turn.

Row 22:  Ch1, sc around, including the flap piece that you added on.  Turn.

Row 23:  Ch1, sc 2, ch2, sk2, sc to end, Turn.

Row 24:  Ch1, sc to ch2 sp, sc 2 into ch2 sp, sc to end, Turn.

Fasten off.  Weave in ends and attach a large button/brooch to the other side of the flap.



Stargazer Slouch: 

Row 1:  With 4.5mm hook and Colour A, make a magic ring.  Ch2, hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 2:  Ch2, 2 hdc into each stitch around (16)

Row 3:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st*; rep from * to * around, 1hdc into last st, join.  (24)

Row 4:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into the next 2 sts; 2hdc into next st* rep from * to * to last 2 sts, 1 hdc into each of the last 2 sts; join.  (32)

Row 5:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into next 3 sts, 2 hdc into next st* rep from * to * to last 3 sts, 1 hdc into each of the last 3 sts, join.  (40)

Row 6:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into next 4 sts, 2 hdc into next st* rep from * to * to last 4 sts, 1 hdc into each of the last 4 sts. join.  (48)

Row 7:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into next 5 sts, 2 hdc into next st* rep from * to * to last 5 sts, 1 hdc into each of the last 5 sts.  Join.  (56)

Row 8:  Ch2, hdc into same st, *1 hdc into next 6 sts, 2 hdc into next st* rep from * to * to last 6 sts, hdc to end, join.  (64)  Change to Colour B

Row 9:  Ch 2, hdc 3, *sk1 hdc 7, ch 2, hdc 7**, sk1, hdc 7*;  rep from * to *, finishing last repeat at **; sk1, hdc to end, sl st to beg ch 2. 

Row 10:  C h2, hdc 3, sk1 hdc 6, *(hdc, ch2, hdc) in nxt space, hdc 6**, sk1, hdc 6*  rep from * to *, finishing last rep at **, sk1, hdc in next 3, sl st to beg ch 2.

Row 11-12:  Rep Row 10.  Change to Colour C.  

Rows 13-14:  Rep Row 10 (twice), Change to colour A.

Row 15:  Rep row 10; Change to Colour C.

Rows 16-17:  Rep row 10 (twice), Change to colour B 

Rows 18-21:  Rep Row 10 (4 times); Change to Colour A

Row 22: Ch1, sc around, sl st to beg ch1. Turn.

Row 23: As row 22. Turn.

Row 24:  Ch1, sc in next 37 sts, chain 6. Turn. 

Row 25:  Ch1, sc in 2nd ch from hook and around hat to end, but do not join.  Turn.

Row 26:  Ch1, sc around, including the flap piece that you added on.  Turn.

Row 27:  Ch1, sc to end, turn.

Row 28:  Ch1, sc to last 4 sts, ch2, sk2, sc to end, turn.

Row 29:  Ch1, sc to ch2 sp, sc 2 into ch2 sp, sc to end, turn.

Row 30:  Ch1, sc to end, turn.

Row 31:  Ch1, sc to end, sc in each row down side of buttonhole flap, fasten off.

Weave in ends and attach a large button/brooch to the other side of the flap.

©AG Handmades 2014


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Saturday, 23 August 2014

"Charlotte" Infinity Scarf with Buttoned Band

Introducing the "Charlotte" Infinity Scarf with separate optional buttoned band.

A deliciously long and cosy Chevron scarf worked in pretty stripes in Cream, Plum and Rose.

 


Finished item measures 74" x 10".

You will need around 450-500 yards (approx 250g) yarn to complete this item.

You also need a 4mm and a 4.5mm hook, and 4 wooden buttons.

Difficulty:  Intermediate



“Charlotte” Infinity Scarf/Cowl

Materials:  1 skein Worsted Weight yarn in each of 3 Colours; I used Rose (Colour A), Plum (Colour B), and Cream (Colour C).  4mm and 4.5mm hooks; yarn needle, 4 wooden buttons.

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; sk = skip; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; ch = chain; rep = repeat.

Gauge:  12 dc and 8 rows on 4.5mm hook = 4”

Dimensions: 74” x 10”

**Pattern is written in US terms, a chart to convert to UK terms is included at the end.**

Scarf:
   
With 4.5mm hook, and Colour C, chain 239 + 3 for turning chain (242)

Row 1:  Begin pattern by working 1 dc in 4th chain from hook, dc in each of next 2 chain, sk2 ch, dc in each of the next 4 ch, *ch2, dc in the next 4 chain, sk 2 ch, dc in each of the next 4 chain*; rep from * to * to  end.  Ch2, Sl st to top of beg ch3 to make a loop. 

 You may find it helpful to sew up the gap at the bottom of the stitches here, as you will be using that ch2 loop in the next row.

Row 2:  Ch3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, *sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 sts, (1dc ch2 1dc) into ch2 space**, dc 3*; rep to last st, ending last repeat at **; sl st to beg ch3.  Slip stitch back 1 st, so that you are always starting the new row on the 2nd dc of the (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) combination, to ensure that you always begin the row with a group of 3 dc.  Change to Colour A on the last st.

Rows 3-6:  Rep Row 2 (4 times), change to Colour B on the last st.

Rows 7-8:   Repeat Row 2 twice.  Change to Colour C on the last st.

Row 9:  Repeat Row 2 once.  Change to Colour B on the last st.

Rows 10-11:  Repeat Row 2 twice.  Change to Colour A on the last st.

Rows 12-15:  Repeat Row 2 (4 times).  Change to Colour C on the last st.

Rows 16-17:  Repeat Row 2 twice.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Tie Band: 

With Colour C and 4mm hook, chain 42.

Row 1:  Dc in 4th chain from hook, dc in next 2 ch, *sk 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, ch2, dc in next 4 ch* rep to last 6 sts; sk 2 ch, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in last st.  Change to colour A.  Turn

Row 2:  Ch3, dc in next 3 sts, *sk2, dc in next 3, (dc, ch2, dc) in next sp, dc in next 3*, rep  to last 5 sts, sk 2 sts, dc in next 2, 2 dc in last st.  Change to colour B. Turn

Row 3:  Ch3, dc in same st, dc in next 2, *sk2, dc in next 3, (dc, ch2, dc) in next sp, dc in next 3*, rep  to last 5 sts, sk 2 sts, dc in next 2, 2 dc in last st.  Change to colour C. Turn

Row 4:  Rep Row 3, Change to Colour B.  Turn.

Row 5:  Rep Row 3, Change to Colour A.  Turn.

Row 6:  Rep Row 3, Change to Colour C. Turn.

Row 7:  Rep Row 3. Do not turn.

Leave Colour C attached, but tidy up ends.

Button band and buttonhole band.

With colour C, pick up where you left off.  Working now along the short end of the band..

Row 1:  Ch 1, sc across to end, turn.

Rows 2-4:  Ch1, Work 3 rows sc,  Fasten off.

Attach yarn to the other short end.

Row 5:  Ch1, sc across

Row 6:  Ch1, sc across

Row 7:  Ch3, dc in same, ch1, sk2, dc in next 3 sts, ch1, sk 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, ch1, sk2, dc in next 3 sts, ch1, sk2, dc2 in last st. Do not turn.

Row 8:  Ch1, sc all around band edge, working (sc, ch1, sc) into the corners.

Fasten off, weave in ends.  Sew on 4 buttons to match with the 4 buttonholes made.

Your Infinity Scarf with buttonband is complete!

©AG Handmades 2014





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Friday, 22 August 2014

30% Off All Patterns on Ravelry this weekend




In addition to the End of Summer promotion, where all patterns are already reduced, some as low as 0.50p until the end of August, take advantage of an additional saving this weekend only!

As thanks for the 300 extra "likes" on my Facebook page, AG Handmades, you can take 30% off any one purchase this weekend, with the code "30off"!

Have fun, and thank you all!

AG :)


Kids' Christmas Chevron Cowl

Here's a sweet little free pattern for you:

Kids' Christmas Chevron Cowl.


Very simple, very quick to make.


Finished dimensions 30" x 5"

Materials:  1 skein in total worsted weight yarn (aran/10ply); 4mm hook; yarn needle.

For the Christmas cowl, the colour combination was: 2 rows white, 2 rows green, 1 row red, 2 rows green and 2 final rows white.

Abbreviations: sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; sk = skip; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning

Gauge: 16 dc and 8 rows on 4mm hook = 4”

Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.


To begin: Chain 119 + 3 (122 incl 3 for starting dc)


Begin pattern by working 1 dc in 4th chain from hook, dc in next 2 chain, sk2 ch, dc in each of the next 4 ch, *ch2, dc in the next 4 chain, sk 2 ch, dc in each of the next 4 chain*; rep from * to * to last chain. Ch2, dc in last chain, sl st to beg ch3 to make a loop.

Next Row: Ch3, dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, *sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 sts, (1dc ch2 1dc into ch2 space)**, dc 3*; rep to last st, ending last repeat at **; sl st to beg ch3.

Repeat the last row to desired length.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Enjoy!

AG :)  

©AG Handmades 2014


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Wednesday, 20 August 2014

Winter Cabled Cowl and Bobble Hat

Here is a sweet little cabled Winter Cowl and Bobble Hat which you can make for any Adult/Teen.


Very warm and chunky, with the cable detail adding interest and thickness.

The cowl measures 26" x 7" (adaptable)
The hat measures 20"-22" circumference x 9" (also adaptable by simply working extra rows for length, or adding another multiple of 7 sts for a larger men's hat.

This is an Intermediate level pattern; you will need some basic knowledge of working with cables, although instructions are given in the pattern.

Written in US terms, a chart to convert to UK terms is included.


Winter Cowl and Bobble Hat

Materials:  2 skeins worsted weight yarn, I used Hayfield Aran with 20% wool in “Teal”; 5mm hook, a few beads for the cowl tie; yarn needle.

To fit:  Adult/Teens

Gauge:  14 sts and 10 rows in cable pattern using 5mm hook = 4”


Pattern is written in US terms, a chart to convert to UK terms in included at the end.


Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; bpdc = back post double crochet; ch = chain; beg = beginning; sk = skip; sl st = slip stitch

Special sts

Cable:  Skip 2 sts, fpdc into each of the next 2 sts.  Bringing your hook in front of your work, fpdc into each of the 2 skipped sts, drawing the stitches up to cross over the 2 you did previously.  (For example, count 4 sts from right to left… so visually, it looks like 4,3,2,1 from left to right.   Work the first 2 fpdc into stitches 3 then 4, then cross over to work fpdc in stitch 1 then 2.  Your cable is complete.)


The Cowl:



To begin:  With 5mm hook, make a single crochet foundation chain of 70.  (you can make this larger or smaller if you wish, by making any multiple of 7).

Join to beg dc to make a loop, being careful not to twist the work.

Row 1:  Ch3, dc around.  Sl st to beg ch3.

Row 2:  Ch1, fpdc around same dc from the row below.  Work a Cable over the next 4 dc, as instructed in “Special Stitches”, *fpdc into each of the next 3 sts, Cable over the next 4 sts*; repeat from * to * to last 2 sts, fpdc in the next 2 sts  join to beg fpdc. 

Repeat this row until you reach 6” in length.

Next Row:  Ch1, work 3 rows single crochet to edge the cowl, then turn the cowl around, attach yarn to the opposite edge and work 2 rows of single crochet around there also.  This will stop the edges curling up as they often do with cabled items.

Take about 9 metres of yarn, divided into 3, and using all 3 together, make a chain to thread through the cowl.  Leave a bit of a tail at the end if you wish to add on beads, as you will need to tie a knot in the cord afterwards to stop the beads coming off.

Thread 3 beads onto the ends of each tie, tie a large, firm knot in the end of the three strands, and trim as desired.

Weave in your ends.


Hat:


Row 1:  With 5mm hook, make a magic ring.  Ch2, make 9 hdc into the ring, join with beg hdc. (8)

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc in same st;  2hdc in each stitch around, join with beg hdc. (16)

Row 3: Ch2, hdc into same st; *1 hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st*, rep from * to * around to last st; hdc into last st, join with beg hdc.  (24)

Row 4:  Ch2, hdc into same st; *1 hdc into next 2 sts, 2 hdc into next st*, rep from * to * around to last 2 sts; hdc into each of last 2 sts, join with beg hdc.  (32)

Row 5:  Ch2, hdc into same st; *1 hdc into next 3 sts, 2 hdc into next st*, rep from * to * around to last 3 sts, 1 hdc into each of the last 3 sts; join with beg hdc.  (40)

Row 6: Ch2, hdc into same st; *1 hdc into next 4 sts, 2 hdc into next st*, rep from * to * around to last 4 sts; 1 hdc into each of the last 4 sts; join with beg hdc.  (48)

Row 7:  Ch2, hdc into same st; *1 hdc into next 5 sts, 2 hdc into next st*, rep from * to * around to last 4 sts; 1 hdc into each of the last 5 sts; join with beg hdc.  (56)

Row 8:  Ch1, fpdc around same hdc from the row below.  Work a Cable over the next 4 hdc, as instructed in “Special Stitches”, *fpdc into each of the next 3 sts, Cable over the next 4 sts*; repeat from * to * to last 2 sts, fpdc in the next 2 sts  join to beg fpdc. 

Repeat Row 8 until the hat measures 8” from the crown.

Next Row:  Ch1, fpdc around same st from the row below, *bpdc into next st, fpdc into next st*, rep from * to * around, sl st to beg fpdc. 

Repeat this row 2 or 3 more times, according to how long you want the band to be. 

Next Row:  Ch1, sc in each st around.  Sl st to beg sc, fasten off and weave in ends.

Make a large pom-pom in your usual manner (I just wrapped the yarn around the width of my hand over and over then tied it in the centre before cutting the edges.  This worked very well to create a good sized pom-pom. 

Cord detail:

Using about 6 metres of yarn divided into three, as you did with the tie for the cowl, make a long chain.  Thread this through the band of the hat, and secure it at the inside at the back.  Make sure there is still enough stretch in the band before you finally secure it.

Weave in your ends, and you hat and cowl  are done!


©AG Handmades 2014



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