Tuesday, 30 September 2014

Daisy Baby Pants and Hat

Welcome to our new arrivals - the Daisy Baby Pants and Matching Beanie Hat.

Worked in a modified version of the classic Daisy Stitch; the result is a beautifully textured fabric that is warm as well as pretty.


Add to this a matching Beanie and you have a set any little girl will look great in over the Winter months.

I made these using Stylecraft Special Aran (worsted weight, 10ply, grade 4) in "Fondant" and "Lavender", two of my favourite Stylecraft Special colours!  

These pants fit 0-3 months but can easily be adapted to larger sizes simply by adding to the initial waistband stitch count, working the required number of rows to the crotch, then dividing the stitches in half for the legs.  

The waistband tie cord is done by working sc into the back bump of the initial chain, making a very neat "ribbon" cord that is even, with a definite "V" on both edges.


“Daisy” Baby Pants and Hat
    
Pants:  To fit 0-3 months; Waist  14” – 16”; Overall length 13”; waist to crotch 6.5”; leg length 6.5”; Leg Circumference 8”; Hips 17” Circumference.  Hat: to fit 0-3 months; length 5.5”; Hat circumference 12”-14”.


Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.


Materials:  1.5 skeins worsted weight yarn; I used Stylecraft Special Aran (10ply) in shades “Fondant” and “Lavender”.  4.5mm hook, 5mm hook and 5.5mm hook; yarn needle.

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; fphdc = front post half double crochet; bphdc = back post half double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; bpdc = back post double crochet; sk = skip; sl st = slip stitch; yo = yarn over; rep = repeat; beg = beginning

Gauge:  7 daisy clusters and 8 rows of clusters = 4” with 5.5mm hook


Pattern uses a modified version of the “daisy” stitch; instructions given below.

Pattern:

With 5mm hook, make 56 hdc foundation chain.  Alternatively, chain 57, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and to end (56)

Join to beginning without twisting.  Ch3, *fpdc in next, bpdc in next*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg ch3. 

Repeat previous row twice more. (56)

Change to 5.5mm hook

Row 1: ch3; working back down the ch3 you just made, insert hook into 2nd ch, draw loop through, insert hook into 1st ch, draw loop through, insert hook into st at base of 3ch, draw loop through, insert hook into next st, pull yarn through, (5 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 5 loops, ch 1.  *insert hook into ch1 you just made, pull yarn through, insert hook into same st as last st of the daisy you just made, pull yarn through, insert yarn into next st, pull yarn through, insert yarn into next st, pull yarn through,  yo,  pull yarn through all 5 loops, ch 1.* rep from * to * to end, sl st to top of beg ch3.  (28 daisy clusters)

Row 2: sl st to eye of 1st daisy , ch3; insert hook into 2nd ch, draw loop through, insert hook into 1st ch, draw loop through, insert hook into base of 3ch (eye of the daisy from prev row), draw loop through, insert hook into horizontal loop between daisies, pull yarn through, (5 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 5 loops, ch 1. *insert hook into ch1 you just made, pull yarn through, insert hook into same st as last st of daisy, (horizontal st bet 2 daisies from row below), pull yarn through, insert hook into eye of daisy from row below, pull yarn through, insert hook into horizontal st between daisies, pull yarn through, (5 loops on hook), yo, pull yarn through all 5 loops, ch 1.* rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 3: do not sl st to eye for this row, ch3, insert hook into 2nd ch, pull yarn through, insert hook into 1st ch, pull yarn through, insert hook into base of ch 3, pull yarn through, insert hook into eye of daisy from row below, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops; ch1; *insert hook into ch1, pull yarn through, insert hook into base of daisy, pull yarn through, insert hook into horizontal st between daisy eyes, pull yarn through, insert hook into eye of next daisy, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1.*  Rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg ch3.

Rep rows 2 and 3 until work measures 6"

Next Row:  sl st to eye of next daisy; ch3, work in pattern as before for 14 daisies ending with ch1, work 1 dc in same st as finishing the daisy, ch1 again, reach across to the beginning of this row, 1 dc in st to the right of beg ch3, sl st to beg ch3.

Next Row: do not sl st to eye for this row, ch3, insert hook into 2nd ch, pull yarn through, insert hook into 1st ch, pull yarn through, insert hook into base of ch 3, pull yarn through, insert hook into eye of daisy from row below, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops; ch1; *insert hook into ch1, pull yarn through, insert hook into base of daisy, pull yarn through, insert hook into horizontal st between daisy eyes, pull yarn through, insert hook into eye of next daisy, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1*.  Rep from * to * for a total of 14 daisies; insert hook into ch1, pull yarn through, insert hook into eye of daisy below, pull yarn through, insert hook into top of dc, pull yarn through, insert hook into top of dc on opposite side, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook, ch1, sl st to beg ch3 (15 daisies).

Next row: sl st to eye of next daisy; ch3, work in pattern as before ending with ch1; sl st to beg ch3.

Repeat the previous 2 rows, working in pattern as before until leg measures 5.5" from crotch.

Change back to 5mm hook

Next Row:  Ch2, hdc in each st around. sl st to beg ch2 (29 hdc and ch2)

Next Row:  ch3, *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st*, rep from * to * to end,  ending with fpdc; sl st to beg ch3. 

Repeat previous row once more.  Fasten off.

With pants waist facing towards you and leg end away from you, attach yarn to centre front of crotch.  In the stitch to the left of the one in which the other leg ends at the divide, ch3, work 14 daisies around, finishing last daisy with the usual ch1, then ch1 again, Reach across the crotch to the other side, work 1 dc into the same st as the other leg finished up, then sl st to beg ch3 of this row.

Continue in pattern as for other leg. (15 daisies)

Sew up crotch.

Tie Cord – With a 5mm hook, ch 130; sc in 2nd ch from hook and to end.  (If you can, work into the back bump of each chain as this gives a nice even edge to both sides.)


Hat

Row 1: With 4.5mm hook, make a magic ring, work 8 hdc into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)

Row 2: 3ch, 2 dc in same stitch as 3ch, then 2 dc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg dc (16)

Row 3: 3ch, 2dc in same stitch as 3ch, *1 dc in next st; 2 dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg dc (24)

Row 4: 3ch, 2dc in same stitch as 3ch, *1 dc in next 2 stitches; 2 dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg dc (32)

Row 5: 3ch, 2dc in same stitch as 3ch, *1 dc in next 3 stitches; 2 dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg dc (40)

Row 6:  ch3; working back down the ch3 you just made, insert hook into 2nd ch, draw loop through, insert hook into 1st ch, draw loop through, insert hook into st at base of 3ch, draw loop through, insert hook into next st, pull yarn through, (5 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 5 loops, ch 1.  *insert hook into ch1 you just made, pull yarn through, insert hook into same st as last st of the daisy you just made, pull yarn through, insert yarn into next st, pull yarn through, insert yarn into next st, pull yarn through,  yo, pull yarn through all 5 loops, ch 1.* rep from * to * to end, sl st to top of beg ch3.  (21 daisy clusters)

Row 7:  sl st to eye of daisy from last row - ch3, insert hook into 2nd ch, pull yarn through, insert hook into 1st chain, pull yarn through, insert hook into base of ch3, pull yarn through, insert hook into top of next st, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops; ch1; *insert hook into eye of daisy you just worked, pull yarn through, insert hook into st at base of daisy, pull yarn through, insert hook top of next st, pull yarn through, insert hook into top of next st, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops, ch1*  rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 8: Do not sl st to eye for this row; ch3, insert hook into 2nd ch, pull yarn through, insert hook into 1st ch, pull yarn through, insert hook into base of ch 3, pull yarn through, insert hook into eye of daisy from row below, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops; ch1; *insert hook into ch1, pull yarn through, insert hook into base of daisy, pull yarn through, insert hook into horizontal st between daisy eyes, pull yarn through, insert hook into eye of next daisy, pull yarn through, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1*.  Rep from * to * to end of row, sl st to beg ch3.

Rep previous two rows, until hat measures 3.5", change to Colour B on last st of row.

Continue in pattern for 2 more rows, change back to Colour A  on last st of row.

Next Row:  Ch2, hdc around. Sl st to beg ch2.

Next Row:  Ch2, *fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st*; rep from * to * around, sl st to beg ch2.

Repeat previous row once more.  Fasten off.

©AG Handmades 2014





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Friday, 26 September 2014

Autumn is Here!

With temperatures of 53 F during the day, and strong gusty winds blowing the leaves off the trees, I think it's safe to say that Autumn is officially with us!


So, to cheer us all up in the damp and windy weather, here's a FREEBIE for the rest of September. This Mother & Daughter Hat and Cowl set will go back to paid on October 1st (UK time), so grab it while you can!

Happy hooking!

AG :)


FREE only on RAVELRY - just click HERE.


Tuesday, 23 September 2014

Raspberry Fan Scarf/Cowl and Hat Set


Remember the Snowbird baby blanket?   This pattern utilises the same gorgeous large fan stitch, modified for an infinity scarf/cowl and hat.

I used worsted weight yarn (aran/10ply), in colour "Raspberry"; you may choose any colour you like!


The scarf measures 45" x 6" (completely adaptable to any size - use any multiple of 14 + 2 for the scarf, and any multiple of 14 sts for the hat).

You will need:  3 skeins worsted weight yarn; 5.5mm and 6mm hooks; a yarn needle.

The pattern looks complicated and uses a treble crochet cluster.  I have labelled it "Intermediate" but full instructions are given.

  

Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart for UK terms in included at the end.


Materials:  3 skeins worsted weight yarn (aran/10ply); 5.5mm hook, 6mm hook; yarn needle

Gauge:   12 sts and 18 rows single crochet on 5.5mm hook = 4”

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; yo = yarn over;   sl st = slip stitch; sk = skip; beg = beginning; rep = repeat; trc cluster = (see Special Stitches).

Finished measurements:  Scarf: 45” x 6”; Hat: to fit Adult Women (sc band is 20” – 22” Circumference; Length from crown = 9.5”.

Special Stiches:

2trc cluster:  Yarn over twice, insert hook into next st, yo, draw yarn through, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, draw through the next 2 loops; yo twice, insert hook into the same st, yo, draw yarn through, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, draw through the next 2 loops; then draw through all remaining 3 loops.

3trc cluster:  Yarn over twice, insert hook into next st, yo, draw yarn through, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, draw yarn through the next 2 loops; yo twice, insert hook into the same st, yo, draw yarn through, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, draw through the next 2 loops; yo twice, insert hook into the same st, yo, draw yarn through, yo, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, draw through the next 2 loops, yo, draw through all remaining 4 loops.


Scarf/Cowl:

Row 1:  With 6mm hook, ch 170, (or any multiple of 14 + 2); hdc in 3rd chain from hook, and to the end.  Join, but do not twist or you will have the front of the stitch on one half of the scarf, and the back on the other showing to the front.

Row 2:  (ch4, 2tcr cluster, ch3, 3trc cluster) in 1st st, *ch2, sk 6, sc**, ch2, sk6, (3trc cluster, ch3, 3trcluster, ch3, 3trc cluster) into next st*; rep to last 6 sts finishing last rep at **.  Sk 6, ch2, 3trc cluster into same st as beg ch4, ch3, sl st to top of centre trc.

Row 3: Into the middle of the centre trc cluster you just slip-stitched to, (ch1, sc in same st); ch2, (3trc cluster, ch3, 3trcluster, ch3, 3trc cluster) into next sc, *ch2, sc into the centre trc of the next centre 3trc cluster; ch2, (3trc cluster, ch3, 3trcluster, ch3, 3trc cluster) into next sc*; rep from * to * to end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 until the desired width is reached.

Next Row:  ch7, sc in sc from prev row, *ch6, sc in top of centre 3trc; ch6, sc in next sc*; rep around, sl st to 1st ch of beg chain.

Next Row:  ch2; hdc in every chain and every sc around.  Sl st to beg hdc.

Next Row:  ch2 hdc in every st around.sl st to beg hdc, fasten off.  Note:  if you find your edging “frilling” and you don’t want it to, simply hdc2tog every 6th st on this round and that will straighten it up.

Turn the scarf around, attach yarn to any space between any hdc, (not the unused loop of the beginning chain), ch2, work one row of hdc around this edge also.  (Again, if it “frills”, simply work hdc2tog every 6th stitch as before.)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Hat:

Row 1:  With 5.5mm hook, make a magic ring.  Ch2, work 7hdc into ring.  Sl st to beg hdc. (7)

Row 2:  ch2, 2 hdc in same, 2 hdc in every stitch around.  Sl st to beg hdc.  (14)

Row 3: ch2, 2 hdc in same, *1 hdc in next stich; 2 hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; 1 hdc in last st.  Sl st to beg hdc.  (21)

Row 4:  ch2, 2 hdc in same, *1 hdc in next 2 sts; 2 hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to last 2 sts; 1 hdc in each of the last 2 sts.  Sl st to beg hdc.  (28)

Row 5:  ch2, 2 hdc in same, *1 hdc in next 3 sts; 2 hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to last 3 sts; 1 hdc in each of the last 3 sts.  Sl st to beg hdc.  (35)

Row 6: ch2, 2 hdc in same, *1 hdc in next 4 sts; 2 hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to last 4 sts; 1 hdc in each of the last 4 sts.  Sl st to beg hdc.  (42)

Row 7:  ch2, 2 hdc in same, *1 hdc in next 5 sts; 2 hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to last 5 sts; 1 hdc in each of the last 5 sts.  Sl st to beg hdc.  (49)

Row 8:  Ch2, hdc in same, *1 hdc in next 6, 2hdc in next st; *; rep from * to * to last 6 sts; 1hdc in each of the last 6 sts.  Sl st to beg hdc. (56)

Row 9:  Ch2, hdc in same, *hdc in next 7, 2hdc in next*; rep to last 7 sts;  1hdc in each of the last 7 sts.  Sl st to beg hdc. (63)

Row 10:  Ch2, hdc in same, *hdc in next 8, 2hdc in next*; rep to last 8 sts; 1hdc in each of the last 8 sts.  Sl st to beg hdc. (70)

Note:  The fan st on the hat is slightly different than on the scarf.  In between each 3trc cluster, work only 2 chain instead of 3 as you did in the scarf.

Row 8:   (ch4, 2tr cluster, ch2, 3trc cluster) in 1st st, *ch2, sk 4, sc**, ch2, sk4, (3trc cluster, ch2, 3trcluster, ch2, 3trc cluster) into next st*; rep to last 4 sts finishing last rep at **.  Sk 4, ch2, 3trc cluster into same st as beg ch4, ch2, sl st to top of centre trc.

Row 9:  Into the middle of the centre trc cluster you just slip-stitched to, (ch1, sc in same st); ch2,  (3trc cluster, ch2, 3trcluster, ch2, 3trc cluster) into next sc, *ch2, sc into the centre trc of the next centre 3trc cluster; ch2, (3trc cluster, ch2, 3trcluster, ch2, 3trc cluster) into next sc*; rep from * to * to end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Repeat rows 8 and 9 until the hat measures 7”.  If you want the hat more slouchy, make it longer here, to your desired length – remember the sc band will add another 3”.

Next Row:  ch1, sc in same st, 1 sc into 2 ch sp; continue to the end by working 1 sc into the top of each 3trc cluster, and 1sc in each ch2 spaces either side of each 3 trc cluster and each side of each sc, sl st to beg sc. (56)

Next 10 rows:  ch1, sc in each st around.  (If you find your band is too large, don’t be afraid to try switching down a hook size for the band only).

Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Congratulations, your Raspberry Fan Scarf and Hat are complete!

©AG Handmades 2014




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Thursday, 18 September 2014

Rolled-Brim Textured Chemo Hat

Here is a pattern for a pretty little rolled-brim beanie hat, with a textured stitching.



This hat pattern is free and will always remain FREE.


Rolled Brim Textured Hat

A pretty little rolled-brim beanie hat, with a textured stitching.  I made this hat for a special friend going through chemo.  I hope some of you will consider using it similarly, as a donation to those very brave and very wonderful women.   There, but for the grace of God, go you and I. 

Materials:  1 skein worsted weight yarn (aran/10ply). I used Stylecraft Special in “Raspberry”; 5mm hook, 5.5mm hook and 4.5mm hook; yarn needle.

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; sl st = slip stitch; hdc = half double crochet.

Gauge:  16 sts and 12 rows on 5mm hook, single crochet = 4”.

Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart is included at the end.


Pattern:

Work in the round, not joining at the ends of each row, but place a stitch marker and continue on.

Row 1:  With 5mm hook, make a magic circle, ch2, work 8 hdc into ring.  Sl st to beg hdc. (8)

Row 2:  2 hdc into every stitch around (16)

Row 3: *2 hdc into next st; 1 hdc into next st;* rep to end (24)

Row 4: *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 2 sts;* rep to end (32)

Row 5: *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 3 sts;* rep to end (40)

Row 6: *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 4 sts;* rep to end (48)

Row 7:  *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next 5 sts;* rep to end (56)

Row 8:  hdc around entire row

Row 9: *fpdc in first stitch (around hdc from prev row); hdc in next stitch (top of hdc from prev row).* rep to end.

Row 10: *hdc in top of fpdc from prev row; fpdc in next st (around hdc from prev row).*  rep to end.

Row 11:  *fpdc around hdc from prev row; hdc in top of fpdc from prev row* rep to end.

Repeat Rows 10 and 11 to 7”, or desired length.


Border and roll band:

Change to 5.5mm hook

Row 1:  *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next* rep from * to * last st, 2 sc in last st.

Row 2: *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next* rep from * to * to last 2 sts; 2 sc then 1 sc in last st.

Rows 3-6: sc all around for these 4 rows.

Change to 4.5mm hook

Row 7: sc all around

Row 8:  sl st around entire row.  This, along with the change to the smaller hook, will cause the band to roll inwards, as in the picture.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

            ©AG Handmades 2014





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Tuesday, 16 September 2014

Ocean Sunrise Colour Block Scarf

Whoo!  Busy, busy, day... but, I did get this scarf completed, and I have to say, I like it!

As soon as I saw the colours all together, it reminded me somehow of the ocean; waking up on vacation, and seeing the sun rise over the sea, with the blue sky, the silver surf and a glow of red as the sun comes up!

This scarf/cowl, which I have named "Ocean Sunrise" is a lovely soft, chunky, and beautifully squishy garment that is sheer pleasure to wear, and it will keep you warm on the coldest of days!


Made with Chunky/Bulky (12ply) yarn, and a 7mm hook, it works up very, very quickly.  You could have this completed within a day.

Why not give it a try?

I think you will like it also!

AG :)

Ocean Sunrise Scarf/Cowl


Materials:  4 x 100g skeins total Chunky (Bulky/12ply) yarn, divided into:  2 skeins in Silver; 1 skein in Blue; 1 skein in Pink.   7mm hook; yarn needle; 3 buttons (optional).  (note:  if you make the scarf all one colour, you can probably do it with only 3 skeins)

Abbreviations:  yo = yarn over; sk = skip; dc = double crochet; sp = space; st = stitch.

Finished measurements 64” x 10”

Gauge:  Not important, but mine was 6 Clusters and 5 rows of clusters on 7mm hook = 4”


Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart is included at the end for UK terms.

 

Pattern:

With 7mm hook and Silver, Chain 30.  (note:  if you tend to chain tightly, use an 8mm to chain then switch to 7mm on the next row.)

(You can make this wider by making any number of chain plus 4.)

Row 1: Yarn over, insert hook into 4th chain from hook, pull yarn through, yo, skip 1 chain, insert hook into next chain, pull yarn through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through all remaining 4 loops, chain 1; *Yarn over, insert hook into same st as last loop, pull yarn through, yo, sk 1, insert hook into next chain, pull yarn through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through all rem 4 loops, ch1*; Repeat from * to * to last 2 sts. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch as last loop, pull the yarn through, sk 1, yo,  insert hook into next chain, pull yarn through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through all rem 4 loops; ch1; 1 dc into last st (the same st in which you ended the last mesh cluster).  Turn.

Row 2: Chain 3, yarn over, insert hook into space directly below ch3, pull yarn through, yo, insert hook into next space, pull yarn through, yarn over, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, pull through rem 4 loops, ch 1; *yarn over, insert hook into same space as last loop, pull yarn through, yo, insert hook into next space, pull yarn through, yarn over, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, pull through rem 4 loops; ch 1*; repeat from * to * to end.  1 dc into top of ch 3, Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until scarf measures 18”, Change to Blue on last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 for 3 rows, Change to Pink on last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 for 10”, Change to Blue on last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 for 3 rows, Change to Silver on last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 for 16”, Change to Blue on last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 for 3 rows, Change to Pink on last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 for 12”, Change to Blue on last stitch.

Repeat Row 2 for 4 rows.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

Sew three buttons onto the Silver end of the scarf, so that the Blue edging overlaps it when fastened.  Now you can wear your scarf as a classic open ended scarf, tied in front, doubled up around your neck, or you can button it and wear it in various ways as a cowl.

Enjoy!

AG J
©AG Handmades 2014









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Sunday, 14 September 2014

Poppy comes to town...

For those who want a lighter but longer wrap/scarf/shawl, here is the Poppy shawl.

Similar to the "Dawn" shawl, but made with light worsted weight yarn (Double Knit/8ply), and made longer to use as a wrap.

Bordered with mesh and chain sts, and tassles on each corner, this shawl is very versatile and comfortable to wear.

The pattern is simple, and works up very quickly.


Enjoy!



**Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart is included at the end**

Materials:  3-4 skeins light worsted weight yarn (DK/8ply) 5.5mm hook; yarn needle

Finished measurements: 60” x 42”

Abbreviations: yo = yarn over; ch = chain; rep = repeat; beg = beginning; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; trc = treble crochet; tmc = treble mesh cluster; sc = single crochet

Special Stitches: Aunt Aggie’s Treble Mesh Stitch:  (tmc)
(Yo twice, insert in same space as previous st, pull yarn through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo twice, insert into next space, draw yarn through, yo pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 4 loops, yo pull through last 2 loops)



Pattern:

With 5.5mm hook and light worsted weight yarn, make a magic circle (alternatively, ch 4, sl st into 1st chain to form a circle); ch 3, work 3 dc into ring.  TURN.

Tighten the ring, but not too much.  You are now working on the top of the dc you just made.

Row 1:  Ch 5, 1 trc in same st; Ch 1; *tmc (see special stitches) beginning in same st as previous trc and ending in next st; ch1,* rep from * to * once; 2 trc in last st; Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 5, 1 trc in same st; ch 1; *tmc beginning in same space as previous st and the next space; ch 1* rep from * to * to end; 2 trc in top of beg chain from prev row.  Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until work measures approx. 40” in length (or whatever length you wish to make it) from the bottom of the triangle to the top flat side.  Do not turn.

At the end of the last row, work the border as follows:

Row 1:  Ch 1, dc in same st, *Ch 3, dc in end of next trc*; rep from * to * to bottom point.  Ch3.  Find the centre st of the point, in it work (dc, ch3, dc, ch3, dc, ch3, dc), then ch3, and carry on as before with dc into the end of every trc, and ch3 separating them. 

When you reach the top corner, work (dc, ch3, dc, ch3, dc) into that st, then ch 2.  Dc in next space, ch 2, dc in next space, and so on, all along the top edge.   When you reach the corner where you began with a dc, into that same space work: (dc, ch3, dc, ch3);  sl st to beg dc.

Row 2:  Ch5, sc in top of next dc, rep all the way to the bottom point, around the bottom point, and up the other side.  Once you get to the top edge, work *ch 3, sc in top of dc* to last 2 loops from prev row.  Ch5, sc in next dc, ch 5, sl st to sc from prev row, at the base of the beg ch5 you did when starting this row.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cut 6 lengths of yarn each 12" long, for each corner of the scarf (total 18 lengths 12" long); fold 6 of them in half, holding the loop over your finger - thread that loop through the very corner loop on the scarf, pull the ends of the yarn through that loop to fix them on to the scarf, thereby making a tassle for the corners. Repeat for the other corner and the back point; trim evenly.

There you have it… a lighter and larger version of the “Dawn” Treble Mesh Shawl. 


                                                                                                                            © AG Handmades 2014






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Friday, 12 September 2014

Aunt Aggie's Treble Mesh Stitch

Here is another step in the Aunt Aggie’s Mesh Stitch series

We’ve had the first Mesh Stitch, which is about the size of hdc, the Extended Mesh Stitch which is taller and more like the double crochet size, and now we have the taller treble Mesh Stitch – perfect for more open work like shawls and scarves.



Works with any yarn, any hook, and most designs with an open mesh look.

Aunt Aggie’s Treble Mesh Stitch


**Pattern is written in US terms, a chart to convert to UK terms is included at the end.**


Materials:  Any yarn, any hook which matches size for yarn used.


Abbreviations:
Ch = chain; sk = skip; yo = yarn over; rep = repeat; beg = beginning; trc = treble crochet



Instructions:

Chain any even number plus 5

Row 1: Yarn over twice, insert hook into 5th chain from hook, pull yarn through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo twice, sk 1 ch, insert hook into next chain, pull yarn through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through next 4 loops, yo, pull through rem 2 loops, ch1, *Yarn over twice, insert hook into same ch as last cluster ended, pull yarn through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo twice, sk 1 ch, insert hook into next chain, pull yarn through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 4 loops, yo, pull through rem 2 loops, ch1*; Repeat from * to * to last 2 sts. Yarn over twice, insert hook into same stitch as last cluster ended, pull the yarn through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo twice, sk 1 ch, insert hook into the last chain, pull yarn through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 4 loops, yo, pull through rem 2 loops; ch1; 1 trc into the same ch in which you ended the last mesh cluster. Turn.


Row 2: Chain 4, yarn over twice, insert hook into space directly below ch 4, pull yarn through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo twice, insert hook into next space (between clusters), pull yarn through, yarn over, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, pull through 4 loops, yo, pull through rem 2 loops, ch 1; *yarn over twice, insert hook into same space as last cluster ended, pull yarn through, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo twice,  insert hook into next space, pull yarn through, yarn over, draw yarn through 2 loops, yo, draw through 4 loops, yo, draw through rem 2 loops; ch 1*; repeat from * to * to end. 1 trc into top of ch 4, Turn.

Repeat Row 2 to desired length.
Have fun!
AG J
©AG Handmades 2014




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Oh the Possibilities!


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Would you like a pattern that includes instructions for one basic hat that you can turn into...

A Beanie  ?
A Winter hat ?
A Bobble Hat ?
A Earflap Hat ?
A Slouch?

With a bow, a flower, a sweet little corkscrew, or braided ties?

In all sizes, newborn to Adult?


With this basic hat pattern, you can make them all!  This pattern is so versatile, you can use your imagination to make any combination you wish.

First:  Pick your size.
Second:  Pick the hook required for that size.
Third:  Pick your style!

Decide if you want a basic hat or a slightly more complicated hat – Your choice!  Take a look at the pics and be inspired to create your own!

I hope you enjoy using this pattern as much as I enjoyed making it.

AG :)  



**Pattern is written in US terms, a chart to convert to UK terms is included**

For those interested in the story behind the project, you will find it HERE.


Pattern:

Materials required:  1 Skein Worsted weight yarn (4) in either one or two colours.
4mm (G/6); 4.5mm (7); 5mm (H/8) crochet hook; stitch markers; yarn needle.

Dimensions:
0-3 months: Circumference 11.5” – 13” (29-33 cm); hat length 5.5” – 6” (13-15 cm)
3-6 months: Circumference 12.5” – 14” (32-36 cm); hat length 6.5” – 7” (16.5-18 cm)
6-12 months: Circumference 14.5” – 16” (37-41 cm); hat length 7.5” – 8” (19-20 cm)
1 to 3 years: Circumference 16.5” – 18” (42-46 cm); hat length 8” (20 cm)
3 to 10 years: Circumference 17.5” – 19” (44-48 cm); hat length 8.5” (22 cm)
Pre-Teens and Teens: Circumference 19” – 20.5” (48-52 cm); hat length 9” – 10” (25 cm)
Adult Men & Women: Circumference 20” – 22.5” (48-57 cm); hat height 11.5” (29 cm)

Abbreviations:  Sc – Single crochet; Hdc – Half double crochet; Dc – Double crochet;
Flo – Front loop only; Sl st – Slip stitch

Hooks required: 

4mm          0-3 months
4.5mm       3-6 months
5mm          6-12 months
4.5mm       1-3 years
4.5mm       3-10 years
5mm          Pre-Teens and Teens
5mm          Adult Women/Men


If you wish to substitute hdc for dc in the main body of the hat, you can do that,  just work extra rows to reach the desired length. 

Dimensions are given for sizes from newborn to adult, and the hooks needed to make them.  All hats are made with worsted weight (aran/10ply)


First:  Pick your size.
Second:  Pick the hook required for that size.
Third:  Pick your style!


 The pattern is laid out as follows:

Instructions for Basic Hat Pattern:                                                   
Instructions for Defined Rib Turn up Band  (Option A)               
Instructions for Basic Rib Turn up Band       (Option B)                 
Instructions for Earflaps & Braids                                                    
Instructions for Bow                                                                          
Instructions for Simple Flower                                                         
Instructions for Bobble                                                                     
Instructions for Corkscrew                                                               

**Different numbering for different sizes are colour coded as in the “Hooks Required” section above, and placed in brackets according to size.**

To keep seams almost invisible, always work ch3 at the beg of a dc row, but do not count it as a stitch.  Sl st to the first dc (not the ch3) at the end of the row.



Hat 1:  A basic beanie:  I worked this in hdc throughout.  You can use dc if you wish. (Simple Flower pattern included).



Hat 2:  A basic beanie (similar to Hat 1):  worked in dc throughout, and a stripe added on the last row before edging with single crochet.  The world’s easiest bow added.  (Bow Pattern included).



Hat 3:  Beanie, with a Winter striped turn up brim. (Brim Pattern included)


Hat 4:  Beanie, as above, with a Winter striped turn up brim (Option A under Turn Up Brim), Earflaps and Braids); with or without bobble.

  

Hat 5:  Hat 4 without turn up brim, but with earflaps and braids, and bonus added corkscrew! (Pattern included).

Note:  I did this one for 3-6 months, and worked it all in hdc instead of dc.  You can do either.
Using the required hook for the size you are making, work through the basic pattern, inserting one or two different coloured stripes at regular intervals starting about 2/3rds down the hat. Hint:  if the finished measurement is 6.5”, start the stripes once your hat is about 4.5” long.   Carry on to the required length.  On the last row, end with 1 hdc, 1sc, and a slip st to even out the edge.  Then work as per instructions for Earflaps and Braids


Hat 6:  Semi-slouch …….I worked this in plain hdc with a simple rib brim (Option B under Turn Up Brim.

 



Basic Hat Pattern:

** Use required hook for your chosen size, as in the chart on page 1, or size to obtain gauge **


ALL SIZES:
Make a magic ring (alternatively, chain 4, sl st into 1st ch to make a ring).

Row 1: Chain 3 (does not count as 1dc), dc 9 into ring, sl st to beg dc. (9)

Row 2: 3ch, 2 dc in same stitch as 3ch, then 2 dc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg dc (18)

Row 3: 3ch, 2dc in same stitch as 3ch, *1 dc in next st; 2 dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg dc (27)

Row 4: 3ch, 2dc in same stitch as 3ch, *1 dc in next 2 stitches; 2 dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg dc (36)

*Sizes 0-3 months; 3-6 months; 6-12 months – skip rows 5 and 6 and move on to Row 7*

Row 5: 3ch, 2dc in same stitch as 3ch; *1dc in next 3 stitches; 2 dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg dc (45)

1-3 years and Pre-Teens/ Teens – skip Row Six and move on to Row Seven*

Row 6:

** Size 3 – 10 years only – 3 ch, 2 dc in same stitch as 3 ch; 1 dc in each stitch around, increasing 2 more times evenly, sl st to beg dc (48)

**Size Adult only – 3 ch, 1 dc in same stitch as 3ch; *1dc in next 4 stitches; 2 dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to 3 ch (54). 



Row 7: Ch 3, work dc in each st around, sl st to the beginning dc. If you wish, you may now work in a continuous round to avoid a seam.

Rep Row 7 to required length, depending on size: 5.5” (6.5”, 7.5”, 8”, 8.5”, 9”, 11”) 

Note:  if you wish you can skip the Winter brim and go straight to making earflaps and braids.

For a slouch hat – simply work a few extra rows here before working on the edging or making a turn up band.

For a simple beanie, work 1 hdc into next st, 1sc into next st; sc around for 2 rows.  Sl st in the last st, fasten off and weave in ends.


Turn Up Brim


With a half size larger hook,

Row 1: dc into front loop only. *I like to work into the small loop at the front as well as the front loop of the stitch here, as it keeps the stitching nice and snug, instead of being too loose as it often does when working in just one loop only. ~ See Picture Below*



Work on the *inside* now, for the rest of this band:

Option A:  (as in Hat 3); fpdc into every stitch:

Row 2:  Ch3, fpdc into next st, and each st around.  Sl st to beg fpdc.  Do not turn.

Row 3:  Rep the prev row, change to contrast colour on the last stitch.

Row 4:  Ch3, fpdc into same st and in each st around. Sl st to beg fpdc – change back to main colour on the last st.

Row 5:  Ch3, fpdc into same st and in each st around. Sl st to beg fpdc – change back to contrast colour on the last st.

Row 6:  Ch3, fpdc into same st and in each st around. Sl st to beg fpdc – change back to main colour on the last st.

Row 7:  Work one more row in main colour.  Sl st to beg fpdc. Fasten off and weave in ends.




Option B:  (As in Hat 6): Alternate fpdc and bpdc in the row to create a looser ribbing band.

Row 2:  Ch3, *fpdc into next st, bpdc into next st*; rep to end.  Sl st to beg fpdc.  Do not turn.

Row 3:  Rep Row 2 until you reach the desired length of your turn up band, adding a stripe if you wish, or working plain with only main colour (as in Hat 6)

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Ear Flaps:

Fold the hat in half with the centre back at the centre back.  Mark off each side as in the picture below:



Next, Mark off 4, (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 7) sts to the front of each marker (including the st the marker is in) and 6, (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 9 ) sts to the back of each marker (not including st containing marker). 10, (10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 16) sts total for each earflap.

Take out the first 2 side markers.  It should now look like this:



You will be working your earflaps between these two sets of markers.

Turn the hat inside out, with the striped brim towards you and the crown away from you. (For other hats without the turn up brim, simply work on the outside of the hat between the markers and ignore the instructions for working on the “ridge” (below).

You will see the “ridge” created when you worked into the front loop only at the start of the turn up brim.  You need to now work the earflaps into these sts, working into the left-over loop, *and* the smaller loop behind it:


Working with the band towards you, as in the picture above, attach yarn at the marker to the right.  Going back to your normal hook for the size you are making,  Chain 1, sc in same st and in next 9, (9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 15)  sts (to marker on the left).  Turn.


Row 1:  Ch1, sc across.  Turn.

Row 2:  Ch1, sc 2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc 2 tog.  Turn.

Row 3:  Ch1, sc across.  Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 4 sts remain.

Ch1, sc 2tog twice.  Turn.

Ch1, sc across.  Turn.

Ch1, sc 2tog.   Fasten off.  Weave in end.

Repeat for the other earflap, this time, don’t finish off or break off the end. 

Working on the Outside of the hat, ch1, sc all around earflap, all around hat brim (work into those 2 loops as before), all around 2nd earflap, and back to where you began.  Sl st to beg sc, fasten off and weave in ends.

Braids:

To work the braids, you will need to take 6 strands of each colour, about 1 yd long for the little hats, and about 2 yds long for adult hats.  Divide them out so that you have 3 of each colour for two braids, fold one of the 6-strands (3 of each colour) in half, making a loop at the end with your finger.  Holding on to that loop, insert a large crochet hook from the back of the earflap through to the front, hook onto those 6 strands and pull the loop through a little, about 2 inches.  Then take the other end of those strands and feed them through that large loop.  Pull tight to attach it to the earflap.  Repeat for the other side.

You now have 6 strands (3 of each colour) looped through the ends of the earflaps.  Divide them into 3 sections, (2 of each colour in each section), and braid them together.  Tie a knot in the end and trim neatly.  Repeat for the other side, making sure both braids and knots are of equal length.

I tend to make the braids on the longer side, figuring you can always trim them later, but you can’t add more on once they are cut!  Round about 12” is pretty good for an older child/ teen/adult, about 7”-9” for a younger child.

Here are the completed braids:


Easiest bow ever!

Ch13, (leave a tail about 4” long); sc in 2nd ch from hook and to end, turn.  Ch 1, sc to end, for 4 rows.  Fasten off leaving another tail about 4” long. 

Weave in those ends but take them only to the centre back of the piece, top and bottom.

Pinch the rectangle together at the centre and use the two ends at the back to wrap around that centre so that you can then knot them at the back.  Sew or tie the bow to the hat.  Simples!  J


Easiest Flower ever!

Ch4, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring.  Ch1, work 5 sc into ring.  Sl st to beg sc.

*Ch3, 2 dc in same st, ch2, sl into next sc*; rep around (5 petals).  Fasten off leaving one long end.  Weave in short end – use long end to attach to hat.

Bobble:

Making a bobble is surprisingly simple.  You will need either two pieces of stiff card, or you can just use your hand! 

Card Option:  Cut two pieces of card in a circle (whichever size you want the bobble to turn out), with a slit in the bottom and a small circle cut out of the centre of both cards.  Wrap your yarn around both pieces of card until the circles are entirely covered – more is better when it comes to bobbles!  Keeping the circles together, cut around the edge between the two pieces of card to cut through the yarn all around the circle.  Before removing the cards from the yarn, take 2 strands of yarn, thread them around the bobble, between both cards, tie firmly to keep the pieces of yarn together in the centre.  Leave the 2 pieces of yarn long to hold on to while trimming, and to tie the bobble to the hat.  Trim as required, to make a nice round ball shape, watching that you don’t cut those 2 long ties.  Tie firmly to the crown of the hat.

Hand Option:  Lay 2 long pieces of yarn through the gap between your third and fourth fingers, let them hang down past your wrist.  Now wrap yarn around and around your fingers, keeping those long ends in place.  Wrap as many times as you can, remembering that if you make a narrow band of yarn, the bobble will be of corresponding height – try to make it as tall as it is wide.  When you are done, pull up the long strands, tie firmly in the centre.  Pull the yarn off your hands, and snip the sides, again watching you don’t cut the two ties.  Trim it to a ball shape, and tie firmly to the crown of the hat.

Corkscrew

A sweet little addition to any baby beanie!  Easily done – attach yarn to the first row at the crown, on one side stitch there.  Chain 10.  In 2nd ch from hook, make 4 sc.  Make 4 sc in next chain and each chain to end of chain 10.  The piece will twist all by itself as you are making it.  Once you have reached the end of the chain 10, sl st to the opposite stitch on the first row of the crown.  Then use your yarn needle to sew down the bottom flap of the corkscrew so that it sits nicely on top of the hat.  

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

There you have it.  A basic hat pattern that you can use to make a variety of styles and sizes, using pure imagination to create very different looks every time!  I hope you have enjoyed this pattern as much as I enjoyed making it.

If you have any problems, feel free to ask. J           ©AG Handmades 2014






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