Thursday, 15 January 2015

Thermal Large Mug Mate

Having spent a couple of days without electricity due to power outages recently, my brain was actively seeking ways to keep things warm!

One of the best Christmas gifts I received was a 34 oz. thermal mug for my coffee.  I love it!  Even so, when there is no heat in the house, that baby cools down very fast!

You know me... if I don't have it, I will try to make it!  And so was born the Thermal Large Mug Mate, with a double-thickness lid to stop the heat escaping from the thinner top of the mug.

  

OK, it's not a vacuum flask, but I tested it and it did keep the coffee hotter for at least an hour longer than without it, so I am a happy bunny.


Materials required:  1 skein worsted weight yarn (I used 100% cotton for the cream one, and Cygnet Aran for the green version.);  4.5mm hook; yarn needle; 2-4 buttons.

Fits a 34 oz. chubby thermal keg.  7.5” tall by 4” diameter. (Adaptable)

 

Abbreviationssc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; THDC = thermal double crochet (see special stitches); THSC = thermal single crochet; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; ch = chain; blo = back loop only; RS = right side of work; WS = wrong side of work; sk = skip.

Special Stitches:

THDC (Thermal double crochet):  Work the first row of dc in blo.  Sl st to beg dc if instructed (if working in a round), or just ch1 and turn if working in straight rows.  Next row:  Work as for a normal dc, but work in the blo of the next stitch *and* in the unused loop of the row below, which is now at the back of your work.  Complete each dc as normal.  Work every stitch in the following rows in this manner, i.e., blo in the front row, catching up the unused loop of the previous row from behind your work.  Sl st to beg dc if working in a round, and turn, or simply ch1 and turn. 

THSC (Thermal single crochet); work as for THDC except working single crochet instead of double crochet.

There is a good video HERE if you need one.  You will also find the single thermal stitch demonstrated HERE.


Mug Jacket:

Row 1:  With 4.5mm hook, make a magic ring and work 8 hdc into the ring; sl st to beg hdc (8)

Row 2:  Ch1, 2hdc in same space as ch1, 2 hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc (16)

Row 3:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, I hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st, I hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc.  (24)

Row 4:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (32)

Row 5:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 3 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (40)

Row 6:  (ch1, dc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg dc) for 2 rows.  Sl st to beg dc and turn at the end of both rows. (40)

Row 7:  Ch1, working thermal dc, THDC in every stitch around, sl st to beg dc; turn.

Repeat Row 7 until work measures 2" from the ridge you made when you did the first row of dc in the blo.

Start working in straight rows now, not joining.

Next Row:  Ch1, THDC in every stitch across to end.  Turn.  (40)

Repeat previous row for another 5" (total 7” from bottom ridge), or up to the top of the handle, if your mug is taller, ending with a RS row.

Still working in rows:

Next Row:  Ch1, work 1 row THSC (this time in both loops of the top stitches and that back loop from the row below), at the same time decreasing (by working 2 THSC together) every 3rd stitch to make the top of the cover nice and snug. 

Next Row:  Ch1, sc (normally) to end.  Do not turn.  (sc ch1 sc) into the corner stitch; chain 20;  sl st back to the corner, then sc evenly down the side edge, and up the other side edge.  

Work 1 row reverse sc around the top edge. Fasten off.

Re-attach the yarn about 1” down one side, as you are now going to be working between the top and bottom of the mug handle, to create a tab that passes through to the other side from right to left.

Next Row:  Ch1, dc in blo for 10 stitches, or to the end of the space between the top and bottom of the mug handle.  Turn.

Next 5 Rows: Ch1, THDC in each stitch to end, turn.

For 1 button, as in the green version, work:  Sc 4, ch 4, sk2, sc 4.  Fasten off.

For 3 buttons, as in the cream version, work: sc 1, ch4, sk 2, sc 1, ch4, sk2, sc1, ch4, sk2, sc 1.  

Fasten off.

Tidy up ends, and sew a large button (or 3 if you have made 3 buttonholes on the flap instead of 1) corresponding to where the middle flap meets the other side of the cover when on the mug, and another button corresponding to where the top loop meets the other side, keeping it nice and snug.

Your whole piece should now look like this:   




Unless you have made 3 buttonholes, then the diagram would show three loops on the flap and 4 buttons in total.

Lid:

Do you want extra insulation at the top when you are not using the mug for a short while?  No problem.  After all, that is where most of the heat escapes.

Work 2 circles as follows:

Row 1:  With 4.5mm hook, make a magic ring and work 8 hdc into the ring; sl st to beg hdc (8)

Row 2:  Ch1, 2hdc in same space as ch1, 2 hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc (16)

Row 3:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, I hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st, I hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc.  (24)

Row 4:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (32)

Row 5:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 3 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (40)  Fasten off.

For a second circle:

Row 1:  With 4.5mm hook, make a magic ring and work 8 hdc into the ring; sl st to beg hdc (8)

Row 2:  Ch1, 2hdc in same space as ch1, 2 hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc (16)

Row 3:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, I hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st, I hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc.  (24)

Row 4:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (32)

Row 5:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 3 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (40)  Do not fasten off.

Row 6:  Holding both circles together, ch1,  sc around the edge of both circles together, working in the blo of the top circle and both loops  of the bottom circle.   Sl st to beg sc.  Do not turn.

Row 7:  Ch1, dc into blo in every stitch around, sl st to beg dc, turn.

Rows 8 & 9:  Ch1, THDC in each stitch around, sl st to beg THDC, turn.

Rows 10 & 11:  Ch1, THDC in each stitch to end; turn.

Row 12:  Ch1, THSC all around the bottom edge, working in both loops  and pulling in the unused loop of the thermal stitch from the row below to neaten off the edge.

Row 13:  Ch1, sc (normally) in every stitch across to the last 3 sts;  ch2 sk2, sc in last stitch (to enable you attach the "lid" to the existing button on the jacket. 

Row 14:  Ch1, work reverse single crochet around the edge. Chain 20 to form a loop, sl st back to the same side. Fasten off and tidy up ends.

Attach lid by fixing it to the top button of the jacket in the buttonhole you just made, then slip the chain loop under the handle and around that same button. 

You can now either have it covering the top of the mug for extra insulation when not in use, or you can simple lift it off and let it hang at the side.  


  


©AG Handmades 2015



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