Friday, 30 January 2015

20:20 Fingerless Gloves

20 Rows in one, 20 rows in the other!


Here is an easy to make pair of fingerless gloves, in sizes Women's Small and Women's M/L

Difficulty:  Easy


Materials: 1 Skein worsted weight (aran/10ply) yarn; 4.5mm hook; 5mm hook; yarn needle for sewing in ends; 4 small buttons.

Abbreviations: sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; beg = beginning; rep = repeat; sp = space; sk = skip; st = stitch; sl st = slip stitch; blo = back loop only; fphdc = front post half double crochet.

Gauge: 12 sts and 16 rows on 5mm hook, working half double crochet = 4”.

Sizing: Women’s Small; Women’s M/L

Women’s Small      Circumference above thumb 8”       Length 7.5”       Wrist 7”
Women’s M/L         Circumference above thumb 9”       Length 8”          Wrist 8”

Difficulty: Easy

**Small and M/L gloves are worked to the same pattern, using 4.5mm for Small and 5mm for M/L.**


Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart is included at the end.


Pattern:

Wristband Option 1 - plain ribbing (make 2):

Row 1: With 4.5mm (5mm) hook, chain 13. Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook and to end. Turn. (12)

Row 2: Ch1, sc in blo of each stitch across. Turn.

Rows 3 – 24: repeat Row 2.

Row 25: Ch1, sc evenly across long edge of wristband.

Place the two short ends of your work together, with RS facing, and sl st along the short ends, joining both together to form the wristband. Do not fasten off. Turn the wristband around again so that the RS is now on the outside. Continue to main glove section.

Wristband Option 2 - front post ribbing (make 2):

Row 1: With 4.5mm (5mm) hook, make a foundation single crochet row of 24 sts. sl st to join.
(Alternatively, chain 25, sc in 2nd chain from hook and to end. Sl st to beg sc.)

Rows 2-8: Ch 1, fphdc in same st and every stitch around; sl st to beg fphdc (24).  Continue to main glove section.

Right Glove:

Row 1: Ch1, work 24 sc evenly around the top edge of the wristband. Sl st to beg sc. Do not turn.

Row 2: Ch1, sc in blo in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.

Row 4: Ch1, Place marker to indicate the beginning of the row, sc in same stitch to begin working in rounds; hdc in every stitch around. Do not join. (24)

Rows 5 – 10: Hdc in each stitch around. (24)

Row 11: Hdc in next 18 sts; 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts (2 increases made), hdc to end. (26)

Row 12: Hdc in next 19 stitches, 2hdc in next st; hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st; hdc to end (28)

Row 13: Hdc in next 19 sts; ch2, sk 6, hdc to end (22 hdc and 2 chain).

Row 14: hdc in next 19 sts; 2 hdc in ch2 space, hdc to end. (24)

Row 15: hdc in every stitch around. (24)

Rows 16-18: Repeat Row 15.

Row 19: Sc in every stitch around.

Row 20: Sc in every stitch around, to last 4 sts; sl st st over the next 4 sts to even out the edge, fasten off invisibly.


Left Glove:

Row 1: Work 24 sc evenly around the top edge of the wristband. Sl st to beg sc. Do not turn.

Row 2: Ch1, sc in blo in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.

Row 4: Ch1, sc in 1st stitch to begin working in rounds; hdc in every stitch around. Do not join. (24)

Rows 5 – 10: Hdc in each stitch around. (24)

Row 11: Hdc in next 5 sts; 2hdc in each of the next 2 sts (2 increases made), hdc to end. (26)

Row 12: Hdc in next 6 stitches, 2hdc in next st; hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st; hdc to end (28)

Row 13: Hdc in next 6 sts; ch2, sk 6, hdc to end (22 hdc and 2 chain).

Row 14: hdc in first 6 sts, 2 hdc in ch2 space, hdc to end. (24)

Row 15: hdc in every stitch around. (24)

Rows 16-18: Repeat Row 15.

Row 19: Sc in every stitch around.

Row 20: Sc in every stitch around, to last 4 sts; sl st st over the next 4 sts to even out the edge, fasten off invisibly.

Sew 2 buttons on to the fronts of the gloves.

©AG Handmades 2015




If you wish to purchase a pdf version of this pattern, you may do so HERE.  Your pattern will be emailed to you within 24 hours, normally within the hour.  


Monday, 26 January 2015

Time for Bread and Butter

No, I don't mean that is all we are eating this week!

My passion is in designing new things.  I love to sit and play around with a hook and some yarn until I find something I really like, then work out how to make it up in many different sizes/options.

To do that, you need time and a free mind.

This week...  so many orders coming in, it's definitely a "put bread and butter on the table" kind of time.  While my mind is racing with ideas for new things my hook is furiously working away on these:


(People seem to like them!  I am glad.  It took a lot of work figuring out the math for those, and they do look pretty once they are made up)


(these are very popular too)

and these:


I also have an order for a white baby christening shawl.

Busy, busy, busy!

I am not knocking orders!  I am so glad of them and they keep us going in so many ways!  But maybe by the end of the week, or sooner, I will be able to get back to producing some new things also.

Until then, I am here, working hard in the background.  So keep watching this space!

Meanwhile I post every day on my Facebook page with some good finds from my fellow designers, so come along and check it out some time!

AG :)








Monday, 19 January 2015

Ravelry: Baby Blossoms pattern by SassySSS

Ravelry: Baby Blossoms pattern by SassySSS:


(Picture credit:  SassySSS at Ravelry)


This is such a beautiful baby blanket, I had to feature it.  The texture is amazing and despite it's very intricate look, is actually not too hard to make!  And, it's 100% reversible.

SassySSS is very talented, and also designed the famous Wheat Stitch baby blanket.  Both blankets are free on Ravelry at the time of posting and well worth a look.

Go see what I am talking about!  I am sure you will love them too.

'via Blog this'







Thursday, 15 January 2015

Thermal Large Mug Mate

Having spent a couple of days without electricity due to power outages recently, my brain was actively seeking ways to keep things warm!

One of the best Christmas gifts I received was a 34 oz. thermal mug for my coffee.  I love it!  Even so, when there is no heat in the house, that baby cools down very fast!

You know me... if I don't have it, I will try to make it!  And so was born the Thermal Large Mug Mate, with a double-thickness lid to stop the heat escaping from the thinner top of the mug.

  

OK, it's not a vacuum flask, but I tested it and it did keep the coffee hotter for at least an hour longer than without it, so I am a happy bunny.


Materials required:  1 skein worsted weight yarn (I used 100% cotton for the cream one, and Cygnet Aran for the green version.);  4.5mm hook; yarn needle; 2-4 buttons.

Fits a 34 oz. chubby thermal keg.  7.5” tall by 4” diameter. (Adaptable)

 

Abbreviationssc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; THDC = thermal double crochet (see special stitches); THSC = thermal single crochet; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; ch = chain; blo = back loop only; RS = right side of work; WS = wrong side of work; sk = skip.

Special Stitches:

THDC (Thermal double crochet):  Work the first row of dc in blo.  Sl st to beg dc if instructed (if working in a round), or just ch1 and turn if working in straight rows.  Next row:  Work as for a normal dc, but work in the blo of the next stitch *and* in the unused loop of the row below, which is now at the back of your work.  Complete each dc as normal.  Work every stitch in the following rows in this manner, i.e., blo in the front row, catching up the unused loop of the previous row from behind your work.  Sl st to beg dc if working in a round, and turn, or simply ch1 and turn. 

THSC (Thermal single crochet); work as for THDC except working single crochet instead of double crochet.

There is a good video HERE if you need one.  You will also find the single thermal stitch demonstrated HERE.


Mug Jacket:

Row 1:  With 4.5mm hook, make a magic ring and work 8 hdc into the ring; sl st to beg hdc (8)

Row 2:  Ch1, 2hdc in same space as ch1, 2 hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc (16)

Row 3:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, I hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st, I hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc.  (24)

Row 4:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (32)

Row 5:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 3 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (40)

Row 6:  (ch1, dc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg dc) for 2 rows.  Sl st to beg dc and turn at the end of both rows. (40)

Row 7:  Ch1, working thermal dc, THDC in every stitch around, sl st to beg dc; turn.

Repeat Row 7 until work measures 2" from the ridge you made when you did the first row of dc in the blo.

Start working in straight rows now, not joining.

Next Row:  Ch1, THDC in every stitch across to end.  Turn.  (40)

Repeat previous row for another 5" (total 7” from bottom ridge), or up to the top of the handle, if your mug is taller, ending with a RS row.

Still working in rows:

Next Row:  Ch1, work 1 row THSC (this time in both loops of the top stitches and that back loop from the row below), at the same time decreasing (by working 2 THSC together) every 3rd stitch to make the top of the cover nice and snug. 

Next Row:  Ch1, sc (normally) to end.  Do not turn.  (sc ch1 sc) into the corner stitch; chain 20;  sl st back to the corner, then sc evenly down the side edge, and up the other side edge.  

Work 1 row reverse sc around the top edge. Fasten off.

Re-attach the yarn about 1” down one side, as you are now going to be working between the top and bottom of the mug handle, to create a tab that passes through to the other side from right to left.

Next Row:  Ch1, dc in blo for 10 stitches, or to the end of the space between the top and bottom of the mug handle.  Turn.

Next 5 Rows: Ch1, THDC in each stitch to end, turn.

For 1 button, as in the green version, work:  Sc 4, ch 4, sk2, sc 4.  Fasten off.

For 3 buttons, as in the cream version, work: sc 1, ch4, sk 2, sc 1, ch4, sk2, sc1, ch4, sk2, sc 1.  

Fasten off.

Tidy up ends, and sew a large button (or 3 if you have made 3 buttonholes on the flap instead of 1) corresponding to where the middle flap meets the other side of the cover when on the mug, and another button corresponding to where the top loop meets the other side, keeping it nice and snug.

Your whole piece should now look like this:   




Unless you have made 3 buttonholes, then the diagram would show three loops on the flap and 4 buttons in total.

Lid:

Do you want extra insulation at the top when you are not using the mug for a short while?  No problem.  After all, that is where most of the heat escapes.

Work 2 circles as follows:

Row 1:  With 4.5mm hook, make a magic ring and work 8 hdc into the ring; sl st to beg hdc (8)

Row 2:  Ch1, 2hdc in same space as ch1, 2 hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc (16)

Row 3:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, I hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st, I hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc.  (24)

Row 4:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (32)

Row 5:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 3 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (40)  Fasten off.

For a second circle:

Row 1:  With 4.5mm hook, make a magic ring and work 8 hdc into the ring; sl st to beg hdc (8)

Row 2:  Ch1, 2hdc in same space as ch1, 2 hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc (16)

Row 3:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, I hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st, I hdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc.  (24)

Row 4:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 2 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (32)

Row 5:  Ch1, 2 hdc in same space as ch1, 1 hdc in next 3 sts; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg hdc.  (40)  Do not fasten off.

Row 6:  Holding both circles together, ch1,  sc around the edge of both circles together, working in the blo of the top circle and both loops  of the bottom circle.   Sl st to beg sc.  Do not turn.

Row 7:  Ch1, dc into blo in every stitch around, sl st to beg dc, turn.

Rows 8 & 9:  Ch1, THDC in each stitch around, sl st to beg THDC, turn.

Rows 10 & 11:  Ch1, THDC in each stitch to end; turn.

Row 12:  Ch1, THSC all around the bottom edge, working in both loops  and pulling in the unused loop of the thermal stitch from the row below to neaten off the edge.

Row 13:  Ch1, sc (normally) in every stitch across to the last 3 sts;  ch2 sk2, sc in last stitch (to enable you attach the "lid" to the existing button on the jacket. 

Row 14:  Ch1, work reverse single crochet around the edge. Chain 20 to form a loop, sl st back to the same side. Fasten off and tidy up ends.

Attach lid by fixing it to the top button of the jacket in the buttonhole you just made, then slip the chain loop under the handle and around that same button. 

You can now either have it covering the top of the mug for extra insulation when not in use, or you can simple lift it off and let it hang at the side.  


  


©AG Handmades 2015



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Sunday, 11 January 2015

"Stormchaser" Drawstring Slouch



“Stormchaser” Drawstring Slouch
Inspired by the recent storms in the UK, here is an easy slouchy hat which can be worn as a normal slouch, or drawn tighter to the head in bad weather, and tied under the chin to keep you warm.  In sizes newborn to adult.  (My own recommendation for newborn to 1 year old would be to make the drawstrings shorter, or omit them altogether for safety).
Materials:  1 Skein worsted weight (aran/10ply) in Main colour; Oddments in contrasting colour; 4mm hook; 4.5mm hook; 5mm hook; 5.5mm hook; yarn needle for sewing in ends.
Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; fphdc = front post half double crochet; blo = back loop only; beg = beginning; rep = repeat; sp = space; st = stitch; sl st = slip stitch; MC = main colour.
Gauge:  10 sts and 14 rows on 5mm hook, working half double crochet = 4”.
Sizing:  Newborn to Adult
0-3 months Circumference 12”-14”; Length 5.5 -6”
3-6 months Circumference 14”-16”; Length 6 – 6.5”
6-12 months Circumference 16”-17”; Length 6.5 – 7.5”
1-3 years Circumference 18”-19”; Length 7 - 8”
3-10 years Circumference 19”-20”; Length 7.5 - 9”
Teens Circumference 20”-21”; Length 8 - 10”
Adult Circumference 21”-23”; Length 10 - 12”


Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart is included at the end.
You will also need, to complete all the hats, crochet hooks as follows:


0-3 months 4mm  
3-6 months 4.5mm  
6-12 months 4.5mm  
1-3 years 5mm  
3-10 years 4.5mm  
Teens 5mm
Adult 5.5mm
Pattern:
0-3 Months:  
With 4mm hook and MC
Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)


Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)


Row 3:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc.  (16)


Row 4: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)


Row 5:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc.  (24)


Row 6: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)


Row 7:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc.  (32)


Row 8: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)


Row 9:  ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (40)


Repeat Row 9 to 5.5 - 6”.  You can make the hat longer here depending on how slouchy you want it to be.  Change to contrast colour.


Next Row:  Ch1, sc in blo of next st and each stitch around, sl st in beg sc, change back to Main Colour on the last sl st.


Next Row:  Ch2, fphdc in next st; *hdc in next st; fphdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg ch2.


Next Row:  Rep previous row.


Next Row:  Change back to contrast colour, ch1, sc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.  Change back to main colour on last sl st.


Last Row:  With main colour Slip Stitch *fairly loosely* in every stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in ends.  Complete as for “Tassels and Ties” making the ties shorter for babies for safety.


3-6 months:


With 4.5mm hook and MC,


Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)


Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)


Row 3:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc.  (16)


Row 4: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)


Row 5:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc.  (24)


Row 6: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)


Row 7:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc.  (32)


Row 8: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)


Row 9:  ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (40)


Repeat Row 9 to 6 – 6.5”.  You can make the hat longer here depending on how slouchy you want it to be.  Change to contrast colour.


Next Row:  Ch1, sc in blo of next st and each stitch around, sl st in beg sc, change back to Main Colour  last sl st.


Next Row:  Ch2, fphdc in next st; *hdc in next st; fphdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg ch2.


Next Row:  Rep previous row.


Next Row:  Change back to contrast colour, ch1, sc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.  Change back to main colour on last sl st.


Last Row:  With main colour Slip Stitch *fairly loosely* in every stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Complete as for “Tassels and Ties” making the ties much shorter for babies for safety.

6-12 months:


With 4.5mm hook and MC,


Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1hdc), hdc 7 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (7)


Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (14)


Row 3:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around, sl st to beg ch2.  (14)


Row 4: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (21)


Row 5:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around, sl st to beg ch2.  (21)


Row 6: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (28)


Row 7: Ch2, hdc in each stitch around, sl st to beg ch2.  (28)


Row 8: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (35)


Row 9:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around, sl st to beg ch2.  (35)


Row 10: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (42)


Row 11:  ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (42)


Repeat Row 11 to 6.5 - 7”.


You can make the hat longer here depending on how slouchy you want it to be.  
Change to contrast colour.


Next Row:  ch1, sc in blo of next st and each stitch around, sl st in beg sc, change back to Main Colour on the last sl st.


Next Row:  Ch2, fphdc in next st; *hdc in next st; fphdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg ch2.


Next Row:  Rep previous row.


Next Row:  Change back to contrast colour, ch1, sc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.  Change back to main colour on last sl st.


Last Row:  With main colour Slip Stitch *fairly loosely* in every stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Complete as for “Tassels and Ties”, making ties an appropriate length for this age group.

1-3 years


With 5mm and MC,


Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)


Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)


Row 3:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (16)


Row 4: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)


Row 5:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (24)


Row 6: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)


Row 7:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (32)


Row 8: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)


Row 9:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (40)


Row 10: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (48)


Row 11:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (48)


Repeat Row 11 to 7 – 8”.


Change to contrast colour.


Next Row:  Ch1, sc in blo of next st and each stitch around, sl st in beg sc, change back to Main Colour on the last sl st.


Next Row:  Ch2, fphdc in next st; *hdc in next st; fphdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg ch2.


Next Row:  Rep previous row.


Next Row:  Change back to contrast colour, ch1, sc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.  Change back to main colour on last sl st.


Last Row:  With main colour Slip Stitch *fairly loosely* in every stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Complete as for “Tassels and Ties”, making ties an appropriate length for this age group.

3-10 years


With 4.5mm and MC,


Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)


Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)


Row 3:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around, sl st to beg ch2.  (16)


Row 4: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)


Row 5:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (24)


Row 6: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)


Row 7:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (32)


Row 8: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)


Row 9:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (40)


Row 10: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (48)


Row 11:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (48)


Row 12:  Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 5 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 5 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (56)


Row 13:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (56)


Repeat Row 13 to 7.5 - 9”.  You can make the hat longer here depending on how slouchy you want it to be.  Change to contrast colour.


Next Row:  Ch1, sc in blo of next st and each stitch around, sl st in beg sc, change back to Main Colour on the last sl st.


Next Row:  Ch2, fphdc in next st; *hdc in next st; fphdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg ch2.


Next Row:  Rep previous row.


Next Row:  Change back to contrast colour, ch1, sc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.  Change back to main colour on last sl st.


Last Row:  With main colour Slip Stitch *fairly loosely* in every stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Complete as for “Tassels and Ties”, making ties an appropriate length for this age group.

Teens:


With 5mm hook and MC,


Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)


Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)


Row 3:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (16)


Row 4: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)


Row 5:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (24)


Row 6: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)


Row 7:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (32)


Row 8: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)


Row 9:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (40)


Row 10: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (48)


Row 11:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (48)


Row 12:  Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 5 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 5 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (56)


Row 13:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (56)


Repeat Row 13 to 8 – 10”.  You can make the hat longer here depending on how slouchy you want it to be.  Change to contrast colour.


Next Row:  Ch1, sc in blo of next st and each stitch around, sl st in beg sc, change back to Main Colour on the last sl st.


Next Row:  Ch2, fphdc in next st; *hdc in next st; fphdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg ch2.


Next Row:  Rep previous row.


Next Row:  Change back to contrast colour, ch1, sc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.  Change back to main colour on last sl st.


Last Row:  With main colour Slip Stitch *fairly loosely* in every stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Complete as for “Tassels and Ties”, making ties an appropriate length for this age group.

Adult:


With 5.5mm and MC,


Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)


Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)


Row 3:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (16)


Row 4: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)


Row 5:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (24)


Row 6: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)


Row 7:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (32)


Row 8: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)


Row 9:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (40)


Row 10: Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (48)


Row 11:  Ch2, hdc in next and every stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (48)


Row 12:  Ch2, 2hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 5 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 5 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (56)


Row 13:  Ch2, hdc in each stitch around; sl st to beg hdc. (56)


Repeat Row 13 to 10 – 12”.  You can make the hat longer here depending on how slouchy you want it to be.  Change to contrast colour.


Next Row:  Ch1, sc in blo of next st and each stitch around, sl st in beg sc, change back to Main Colour  last sl st.


Next Row:  Ch2, fphdc in next st; *hdc in next st; fphdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end; sl st to beg ch2.


Next Row:  Rep previous row.


Next Row:  Change back to contrast colour, ch1, sc in blo of every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.  Change back to main colour on last sl st.


Last Row:  With main colour Slip Stitch *fairly loosely* in every stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Tassels and Ties:


For each of the back tassels, take 2 strands of yarn worked together and make 10-15 chain.  (Leave 2 long ends of yarn at the beginning to sew them to the hat.)  Then take long lengths of yarn, and fold them over and over until you have 8 strands in total, and the piece you are left with is about 6 inches long.  Fold this in half again, and using another piece of yarn, tie it in the middle, at the same time attaching it to the end of the chain you just made.  Fold the strands  down once more, to form a tassel on the end of the chain, take another strand of yarn, and tie it around the tassel about an inch down from where the tassel is tied to the chain, thus forming a ball of strands, with all the loose strands coming out of the bottom.  Sew in any loose strands from the yarn you used to tie the tassel into shape, and trim the ends to about 1.5”-2”.  Repeat for the other tassel.


Ties:  As with the back tassels, take two strands together but this time chain 80-150 (depending on whether you are making them for a baby or an adult).  Take the long chain you now have and thread it through and through the hat from the brim to the crown and back down to the brim again, at the side of the hat about where the wearer’s ear will be , leaving a space of about an inch between the two sides of the chain.  This will enable the hat to be pulled tighter on the head when necessary.  You will now have two chain ties which you now need to add tassels to as you did with the back tassels on the hat.  Repeat the same process as before to make two tassels for each of these two ends of the chain.  Repeat again for the other side of the hat.  


Tidy up ends, and your hat is complete!  Now you can wear it as a slouch, or as a tight beanie by pulling those strands down to tighten the hat on your head.

©AG Handmades 2015




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