Friday, 27 March 2015

Drawstring Beach Skirt/Poncho (S/M) and (L/XL)

How about a freebie update to an old pattern of mine?

Remember the old Drawstring skirt I made in Acrylic Aran over a year ago?  Well here is the updated version - looks better, doesn't it?

This time I used 100% Cotton, in a lovely "Passionfruit" and "Cream", and I love the end result.

As you can see - you can throw this skirt in your bag and slip it on when you want a quick swimsuit cover-up,..





OR...




if it gets a little breezy at the beach, you can even wear it as a Poncho!


You like?  I do!

Anyway, I promised a freebie... so here it is!

Drawstring Beach Skirt/Poncho


A very easy mesh skirt which you can make up in an evening or two, definitely over a weekend.

Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart in included at the end.

Materials : 180g - 250g  Worsted Weight (aran/10ply) yarn, depending on which size you make and how long you wish the skirt to be. I used just under 150g for the "up to 38" (S/M)" skirt, and 250g for the "up to 50" (L/XL)" skirt.  The smaller skirt I made to 14” length; the larger skirt I made to 15" length. You can use any worsted weight yarn.  I used Premier Home Cotton worsted weight in “Passionfruit”, but I have also used Stylecraft Special Aran with equally good results. 5mm crochet hook for the (S/M) skirt, 6mm hook for the (L/XL) skirt; 7mm hook for the drawstring; A Yarn needle for sewing up ends; A few matching beads.

Size: S/M:  from 24” waist up to 38” waist and 40” hips
         L/XL: from 36" waist up to 50" waist and 52" hips

Length: 14” - 15" (completely adaptable to any length you wish).

Gauge is not important for this garment. The mesh is very stretchy, but if you wish the gauge used for the waistband, on 5mm hook, this was 10 sts and 8 rows dc = 4"

Abbreviations: Dc – double crochet; Sc = single crochet; Ch = chain; sl st = slip stitch; rep = repeat; beg = beginning.

Pattern:


With 5mm hook for (S/M) and 6mm hook for (L/XL) , work a double crochet foundation chain of 90 (110) sts. If you do not know how to work a foundation chain, you can simply chain 89 (109) and work a row of double crochet over it.

If you wish to learn the foundation stitches, there is a good series of videos here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGPkRHF0rUw

90 Stitches gives a good base that, with a drawstring, fits from a very small waist up to 40” and hips up to 42".   Likewise, 108 sts makes a good base to fit from a 36" waist right up to a 50" waist and hips up to 52". When you measure for the beginning chain, be sure to measure by hip size as this will be the widest part.  If your hips are larger, simply add more stitches to the base chain to comfortably fit around them. There is no requirement for a particular multiple of chain.

Row 1 : Join the chain/foundation row with a slip stitch into a circle, being careful not to twist it. Ch 3, dc in next stitch and every stitch around. Sl st to beg dc.

Rows 2 - 4 : Work 3 more row of double crochet to complete the waistband. Again, this pattern is quite adaptable, and if you want a taller waistband, dc more rows accordingly.

Row 5 : Ch 1. Sc into same stitch as ch 1, *2 sc in next, sc in next*, all the way around. The exact number of stitches is not important, just that you increase every other stitch. Sl st to beg sc.

Note:  I have made the skirt fairly "fitted" but if you wish the skirt to be more "flared" simply repeat Row 5 here.  I found that for the larger size, a nice flare was more flattering, so worked an extra row of increases.

Row 6 : Chain 5; skip 3 sts (watch out for those increases from the last row, they are easy to miss). Sc into the 4 th stitch. *Chain 5, skip 3, sc into next*, rep from * to * around. Don't worry if you have an odd amount at the end.  There is no need to sl st at the end of the row, as you can simply carry on into the beginning 5 chain loop, and work around and around to the desired length, then sl st at the centre back of the hemline at the end.

Continue in the mesh pattern (5 chain, sc in next loop) until you reach your desired length. 14” long generally comes to the middle of the thigh, which I think is perfect for wearing as a simple swimsuit cover on the beach. Feel free to make it as long or as short as you wish!

Drawstring: Once you have done the main body of the skirt, tidy up your ends, mark the centre front with a stitch marker and then you need to cut a very long piece of yarn to make a braid. You need around 36 feet (12 yds) of yarn for either size, which you will then fold into three strands.

With the yarn folded together in 3, and leaving about 6 or 7 inches of a tail at the start, using the 7mm hook, make a long chain. Leave about 6 or 7 inches free at the end. Thread the drawstring through the centre of the waistband, every 2 or 3 dc, bringing it back out at the centre front, and tie a bow.

Beading: Now find yourself a few pretty beads to match the skirt. Thread these onto the ends of the chain, and tie a knot into the end to keep the beads in place.

As you can see – a very simple pattern, but a very versatile skirt!

I have enjoyed updating this pattern - I hope you find it useful and fun.

©AG Handmades 2014/15




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Monday, 23 March 2015

Sam's Beach Hat



fh2bb.jpg fh adult 1b.jpg

Sam’s Beach Hat

A pretty little cotton beach/fishing hat that is soft enough to keep in your bag or pocket until you need it, and cool enough to keep the sun off your head and eyes very comfortably.


Materials: 1 - 3 50g Skeins (depending on size made) worsted weight (aran/10 ply) Cotton yarn in Main colour (I used Paris Drops Unicolor in Dark Turquoise (No 10); Oddments in contrasting colours; 4mm hook; yarn needle for sewing in ends. (You can also use acrylic yarn for this as long as it is worsted weight (aran/10 ply) grade 4).

Abbreviations: sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; bpdc = back post double crochet; beg = beginning; rep = repeat; sl st = slip stitch; MC = main colour. CC = Contrasting Colour

Gauge: 12 sts and 10 rows on 4mm hook in (fpdc, dc) pattern = 4”.

Difficulty:  Intermediate

Sizing: Newborn to Adult

0-3 months Circumference 12”-14”; Length 5.5”
3-6 months Circumference 14”-16”; Length 6”
6-12 months Circumference 16”-17”; Length 6.5”
1-3 years Circumference 18”-19”; Length 7”
3-10 years Circumference 19”-20”; Length 7.5”
Teens Circumference 20”-22”; Length 8”
Adult Circumference 22”-24”; Length 9”

Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart is included at the end.

Pattern Notes:  As you work the pattern rows in the main body of the hat, you will be working front and back post stitches, alternating with simple double crochet stitches.  You will be used to working double crochet into the top two loops of the stitch, but it is important, for this pattern, that you place these double crochet stitches in the lower loop of the top of the double crochet from the previous row, as in these pictures:  

stitch position1.jpg stitch position2.jpg


Pattern:

0-3 Months:

With 4mm hook and MC

Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1 hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)

Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)

Row 3: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)

Row 4: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)

Row 5: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)

Row 6: Ch2, Leaving the two loops you would normally work into alone, go over them to the back and you will see a 3rd loop, (Tamara Kelly of Moogly.com has an excellent tutorial here if you need help).  Hdc in 3rd loop around, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 7:  Ch3, *fpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; fpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 8: Ch3, *bpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; bpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

*** Please see “Pattern Notes” for completion of the double crochet stitches in the previous 2 rows and all rows following until you begin to work the brim. ***

Repeat Rows 7 and 8 until hat measures 5.5” from crown.

Brim:  

Row 1:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 5th stitch around; do not worry if you do not have an exact number to finish the row, just make sure you inc every 5th stitch until you get to the end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Row 2:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 6th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 3:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 7th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 4:  Ch1, sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.

Row 5:  Ch1, reverse single crochet (Tutorial here)  in every stitch around, finish off invisibly and weave in ends.

Working now with 2 strands of yarn (2 different colors), Chain 80, finish off and cut yarn.  Thread the worked chain through the stitches of the hat just above the brim, every 5th stitch.  You can either sew this chain in at the end, as I have done with the Teens/Adult hat, or you can leave it to tie in a bow at the side of the hat.  I like to leave it as a tie for babies and children, so that you can adjust it to keep the hat from blowing off their head if there is a breeze at the beach!

Now take 2 small strands of 2 different colours, about 3” long (just enough to tie a knot in with a small amount left at the ends), and tie these on the hat to make “fishing ties”.  Now you will need to separate the strands of the cotton and fray them out to “feather” them.  

Finally, take a longish piece of white yarn, and with a yarn needle, sew it over and over each stitch of the row where you worked into the 3rd loop of the hdc, and created a ridge.  Finish off neatly and weave in ends.




3-6 months:

With 4mm hook and MC

Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1 hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)

Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)

Row 3: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)

Row 4: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)

Row 5: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)

Row 6:  Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc  (48)

Row 7: Ch2, Leaving the two loops you would normally work into alone, go over them to the back and you will see a 3rd loop, (Tamara Kelly of Moogly.com has an excellent tutorial here if you need help).  Hdc in 3rd loop around, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 8: Ch3, *fpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; fpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 9:  Ch3, *bpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; bpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

*** Please see “Pattern Notes” for completion of the double crochet stitches in the previous 2 rows and all rows following until you begin to work the brim. ***

Repeat Rows 8 and 9 until hat measures 6” from crown.

Brim:  

Row 1:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 5th stitch around; do not worry if you do not have an exact number to finish the row, just make sure you inc every 5th stitch until you get to the end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Row 2:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 6th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 3:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 7th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 4:  Ch1, sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.

Row 5:  Ch1, reverse single crochet (Tutorial here)  in every stitch around, finish off invisibly and weave in ends.

Working now with 2 strands of yarn (2 different colors), Chain 85, finish off and cut yarn.  Thread the worked chain through the stitches of the hat just above the brim, every 5th stitch.  You can either sew this chain in at the end, as I have done with the Teens/Adult hat, or you can leave it to tie in a bow at the side of the hat.  I like to leave it as a tie for babies and children, so that you can adjust it to keep the hat from blowing off their head if there is a breeze at the beach!

Now take 2 small strands of 2 different colours, about 3” long (just enough to tie a knot in with a small amount left at the ends), and tie these on the hat to make “fishing ties”.  Now you will need to separate the strands of the cotton and fray them out to “feather” them.  

Finally, take a longish piece of white yarn, and with a yarn needle, sew it over and over each stitch of the row where you worked into the 3rd loop of the hdc, and created a ridge.  Finish off neatly and weave in ends.



6-12 months:

With 4mm hook and MC

Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1 hdc), hdc 10 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (10)

Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (20)

Row 3: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (30)

Row 4: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)

Row 5: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (50)

Row 6:  Ch2, 2 hdc in same st as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 24 sts; 2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in each stitch to end, sl st to beg hdc.  (52)

Row 7:  Ch2, Leaving the two loops you would normally work into alone, go over them to the back and you will see a 3rd loop, (Tamara Kelly of Moogly.com has an excellent tutorial here if you need help).  Hdc in 3rd loop around, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 8:  Ch3, *fpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; fpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 9:  Ch3, *bpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; bpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

*** Please see “Pattern Notes” for completion of the double crochet stitches in the previous 2 rows and all rows following until you begin to work the brim. ***

Repeat Rows 8 and 9 until hat measures 6.5” from crown.

Brim:  

Row 1:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 5th stitch around; do not worry if you do not have an exact number to finish the row, just make sure you inc every 5th stitch until you get to the end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Row 2:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 6th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 3:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 7th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 4:  Ch1, sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.

Row 5:  Ch1, reverse single crochet (Tutorial here)  in every stitch around, finish off invisibly and weave in ends.

Working now with 2 strands of yarn (2 different colors), Chain 90, finish off and cut yarn.  Thread the worked chain through the stitches of the hat just above the brim, every 5th stitch.  You can either sew this chain in at the end, as I have done with the Teens/Adult hat, or you can leave it to tie in a bow at the side of the hat.  I like to leave it as a tie for babies and children, so that you can adjust it to keep the hat from blowing off their head if there is a breeze at the beach!

Now take 2 small strands of 2 different colours, about 3” long (just enough to tie a knot in with a small amount left at the ends), and tie these on the hat to make “fishing ties”.  Now you will need to separate the strands of the cotton and fray them out to “feather” them.  

Finally, take a longish piece of white yarn, and with a yarn needle, sew it over and over each stitch of the row where you worked into the 3rd loop of the hdc, and created a ridge.  Finish off neatly and weave in ends.




1-3 years

With 4mm hook and MC

Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1 hdc), hdc 8 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (8)

Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (16)

Row 3: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (24)

Row 4: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (32)

Row 5: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)

Row 6:  Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc  (48)

Row 7:  Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 5 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 5 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc  (56)

Row 8:  Ch2, Leaving the two loops you would normally work into alone, go over them to the back and you will see a 3rd loop, (Tamara Kelly of Moogly.com has an excellent tutorial here if you need help).  Hdc in 3rd loop around, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 9: Ch3, *fpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; fpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 10:  Ch3, *bpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; bpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

*** Please see “Pattern Notes” for completion of the double crochet stitches in the previous 2 rows and all rows following until you begin to work the brim. ***

Repeat Rows 9 and 10 until hat measures 7” from crown.

Brim:  

Row 1:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 5th stitch around; do not worry if you do not have an exact number to finish the row, just make sure you inc every 5th stitch until you get to the end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Row 2:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 6th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 3:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 7th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Rows 4 and 5:  Ch1, sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc.

Row 6:  Ch1, reverse single crochet (Tutorial here)  in every stitch around, finish off invisibly and weave in ends.

Working now with 2 strands of yarn (2 different colors), Chain 95, finish off and cut yarn.  Thread the worked chain through the stitches of the hat just above the brim, every 5th stitch.  You can either sew this chain in at the end, as I have done with the Teens/Adult hat, or you can leave it to tie in a bow at the side of the hat.  I like to leave it as a tie for babies and children, so that you can adjust it to keep the hat from blowing off their head if there is a breeze at the beach!

Now take 2 small strands of 2 different colours, about 3” long (just enough to tie a knot in with a small amount left at the ends), and tie these on the hat to make “fishing ties”.  Now you will need to separate the strands of the cotton and fray them out to “feather” them.  

Finally, take a longish piece of white yarn, and with a yarn needle, sew it over and over each stitch of the row where you worked into the 3rd loop of the hdc, and created a ridge.  Finish off neatly and weave in ends.



3-10 years

With 4mm hook and MC

Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1 hdc), hdc 10 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (10)

Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (20)

Row 3: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (30)

Row 4: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)

Row 5: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (50)

Row 6:  Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hd. (60)

Row 7:  Ch2, Leaving the two loops you would normally work into alone, go over them to the back and you will see a 3rd loop, (Tamara Kelly of Moogly.com has an excellent tutorial here if you need help).  Hdc in 3rd loop around, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 8:  Ch3, *fpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; fpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 9:  Ch3, *bpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; bpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

*** Please see “Pattern Notes” for completion of the double crochet stitches in the previous 2 rows and all rows following until you begin to work the brim. ***

Repeat Rows 8 and 9 until hat measures 7.5” from crown.

Brim:  

Row 1:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 5th stitch around; do not worry if you do not have an exact number to finish the row, just make sure you inc every 5th stitch until you get to the end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Row 2:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 6th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 3:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 7th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Rows 4 - 6:  Ch1, sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc, (Increase or decrease rows here depending on how deep you wish the brim to be).

Row 7:  Ch1, reverse single crochet (Tutorial here)  in every stitch around, finish off invisibly and weave in ends.

Working now with 2 strands of yarn (2 different colors), Chain 100, finish off and cut yarn.  Thread the worked chain through the stitches of the hat just above the brim, every 5th stitch.  You can either sew this chain in at the end, as I have done with the Teens/Adult hat, or you can leave it to tie in a bow at the side of the hat.  I like to leave it as a tie for babies and children, so that you can adjust it to keep the hat from blowing off their head if there is a breeze at the beach!

Now take 2 small strands of 2 different colours, about 3” long (just enough to tie a knot in with a small amount left at the ends), and tie these on the hat to make “fishing ties”.  Now you will need to separate the strands of the cotton and fray them out to “feather” them.  

Finally, take a longish piece of white yarn, and with a yarn needle, sew it over and over each stitch of the row where you worked into the 3rd loop of the hdc, and created a ridge.  Finish off neatly and weave in ends.



Teens:

With 4mm hook and MC

Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1 hdc), hdc 11 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (11)

Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (22)

Row 3: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (33)

Row 4: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (44)

Row 5: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (55)

Row 6:  Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hd. (66)

Row 7:  Ch2, Leaving the two loops you would normally work into alone, go over them to the back and you will see a 3rd loop, (Tamara Kelly of Moogly.com has an excellent tutorial here if you need help).  Hdc in 3rd loop around, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 8:  Ch3, *fpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; fpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 9:  Ch3, *bpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; bpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

*** Please see “Pattern Notes” for completion of the double crochet stitches in the previous 2 rows and all rows following until you begin to work the brim. ***

Repeat Rows 8 and 9 until hat measures 8” from crown.

Brim:  

Row 1:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 5th stitch around; do not worry if you do not have an exact number to finish the row, just make sure you inc every 5th stitch until you get to the end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Row 2:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 6th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 3:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 7th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Rows 4 - 6:  Ch1, sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc, (Increase or decrease rows here depending on how deep you wish the brim to be).

Row 7:  Ch1, reverse single crochet (Tutorial here)  in every stitch around, finish off invisibly and weave in ends.

Working now with 2 strands of yarn (2 different colors), Chain 110, finish off and cut yarn.  Thread the worked chain through the stitches of the hat just above the brim, every 5th stitch.  You can either sew this chain in at the end, as I have done with the Teens/Adult hat, or you can leave it to tie in a bow at the side of the hat.  I like to leave it as a tie for babies and children, so that you can adjust it to keep the hat from blowing off their head if there is a breeze at the beach!

Now take 2 small strands of 2 different colours, about 3” long (just enough to tie a knot in with a small amount left at the ends), and tie these on the hat to make “fishing ties”.  Now you will need to separate the strands of the cotton and fray them out to “feather” them.  

Finally, take a longish piece of white yarn, and with a yarn needle, sew it over and over each stitch of the row where you worked into the 3rd loop of the hdc, and created a ridge.  Finish off neatly and weave in ends.



Adult:

With 4mm hook and MC

Row 1: Make a magic ring; Chain 2 (does not count as 1 hdc), hdc 10 into ring, sl st to beg hdc. (10)

Row 2: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch2, then 2 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to beg hdc (20)

Row 3: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next st; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next st;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (30)

Row 4: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 2 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 2 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (40)

Row 5: Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 3 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 3 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hdc (50)

Row 6:  Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 4 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 4 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hd. (60)

Row 7:  Ch2, 2 hdc in same stitch as Ch2, 1 hdc in next 5 stitches; *2 hdc in next st; 1 hdc in next 5 sts;*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg hd. (70)

Row 8:  Ch2, Leaving the two loops you would normally work into alone, go over them to the back and you will see a 3rd loop, (Tamara Kelly of Moogly.com has an excellent tutorial here if you need help).  Hdc in 3rd loop around, sl st to beg hdc.

Row 9: Ch3, *fpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; fpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

Row 10:  Ch3, *bpdc in next st, dc in next st*; rep from * to * to last stitch; bpdc in last st, sl st to beg ch3.

*** Please see “Pattern Notes” for completion of the double crochet stitches in the previous 2 rows and all rows following until you begin to work the brim. ***

Repeat Rows 9 and 10 until hat measures 9” from crown.

Brim:  

Row 1:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 5th stitch around; do not worry if you do not have an exact number to finish the row, just make sure you inc every 5th stitch until you get to the end.  Sl st to beg sc.

Row 2:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 6th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Row 3:  Ch1, sc 2 into the same stitch and into every 7th stitch around; Sl st to beg sc.

Rows 4 - 6:  Ch1, sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg sc, (Increase or decrease rows here depending on how deep you wish the brim to be).

Row 7:  Ch1, reverse single crochet (Tutorial here)  in every stitch around, finish off invisibly and weave in ends.

Working now with 2 strands of yarn (2 different colors), Chain 120, finish off and cut yarn.  Thread the worked chain through the stitches of the hat just above the brim, every 5th stitch.  You can either sew this chain in at the end, as I have done with the Teens/Adult hat, or you can leave it to tie in a bow at the side of the hat.  I like to leave it as a tie for babies and children, so that you can adjust it to keep the hat from blowing off their head if there is a breeze at the beach!

Now take 2 small strands of 2 different colours, about 3” long (just enough to tie a knot in with a small amount left at the ends), and tie these on the hat to make “fishing ties”.  Now you will need to separate the strands of the cotton and fray them out to “feather” them.  

Finally, take a longish piece of white yarn, and with a yarn needle, sew it over and over each stitch of the row where you worked into the 3rd loop of the hdc, and created a ridge.  Finish off neatly and weave in ends.


©AG Handmades 2015

If you want to put some cool Ocean applique on the hat, there is a selection here you may wish to consider.

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