Thursday, 28 May 2015

AG Handmades & American Crochet Giveaway

Congratulations to Kristie Partridge, winner of the great Giveaway!! Thank you to all who entered!


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AG Handmades & American Crochet Giveaway! 





~Just Because Giveaway~

AG Handamdes and American Crochet have teamed up to bring you this great giveaway!

This awesome giveaway from these two amazing Designers is a small gesture of saying Thank You!!

This amazing giveaway includes the following:

Knitters Pride “G” Crochet Hook

Bernat Handicrafter Cotton

Sams Beach Hat pattern, all sizes from newborn through to Adult





Awesome, right!? Love it, and love these 2 Designers!

So let’s get to it shall we ~ you have to enter to win!

This giveaway is a Global giveaway.  The entry period for this giveaway starts 4PM May 28, 2015 and ends at 12AM June 1, 2015 Eastern.  The prize will be mailed to the lucky winner by the sponsors, AG Handmades and American Crochet.


A Rafflecopter Giveaway

a Rafflecopter giveaway



Don’t forget to Subscribe to Mistie's Newsletter HERE!


Let me know if you need any help learning how to crochet!
Be sure to share this site with your friends and fellow Crafters.

Happy Hookin!
XO, Mistie and AG :)


http://americancrochet.com/red-heart-giveaway/

Beginner Chain Headband

  




A very simple tie-back headband, in sizes newborn through to adult, and perfect for beginners to crochet. This pattern uses only 3 techniques – chain, single crochet and slip stitch, even for the flower! Very easy, very fast.

Difficulty: Beginner

Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.

Materials: Approx 10 – 20 yds sport/baby weight yarn (Grade 2, fine); 3.5mm hook; yarn needle for tidying up ends and sewing on flower.

I used Vanna’s Glamour in colour “Jewel”; Weight Category 2, Sport Weight, Fine; 1.75 oz/50g (202 yd/185m)

You can also use standard Double Knit (Grade 3, 8 ply) for this pattern, but go down a hook size as the band will turn out slightly longer.

It is very easy to make this to the exact size you require. Using the Gauge stated, simply take the number of inches you require the band to be (minus ties), and multiply by 5. That gives you your starting chain.

Gauge: 5 chain to 1”

Newborn figures are written first, other sizes are in brackets as follows:

Newborn (3-6 months, 6-12 months; 1-3 years, 3-10 years, Preteen/Teen, Adult)


Sizing is as follows (minus ties):

Newborn          12”
3-6 months      14”
6-12 months    16”
1 – 3 years        18”
3-10 years         19”
Preteen/Teen  20”
Adult                  22”


Abbreviations used: sc = single crochet; ch = chain; sl st = slip stitch

You can make each size smaller or larger as you wish by simply adding or subtracting 5 chain per 1” +1.

You will be working on both sides of the starting chain.

All sizes:

Row 1: With 3.5mm hook, chain 61 (71, 81, 91, 96, 101, 111); sc in 6th chain from hook. *ch3, skip 2 ch, sc in next ch; repeat from * to end. Do not turn.

Row 2: Ch5, sc in same chain as last sc worked. Now working on the other side of the starting chain, *ch3, skip 2 chain, sc in next ch (the same ch in which you worked an sc on the other side); rep from * to last sc. Sl st to beg chain 5 loop (which was made when you worked into the 6th chain from the hook at the start. Sl st to centre chain of 5 ch loop, ch 36 (36, 36, 40, 40, 50, 50, 55). Fasten off.

Attach yarn to centre chain of 5 ch loop on the opposite end, ch 36 (36, 36, 40, 40, 50, 50, 55), fasten off.

Flower:

Round 1: Ch5, sl st into 1st ch to form a ring. ch1, *sc into ring, ch2; rep from * 5 more times; sl st to beg sc. (6 loops).

Round 2: Sl st to next ch2 loop, ch1, sc in same loop, *ch4, sc into next loop; rep from * 4 more times, ch4, sl st to beg sc.

Round 3: Sl st to next loop, ch1, sc in same loop; *ch6, sc in next loop; rep from * 4 more times, ch6, sl st to beg sc. For baby sizes, fasten off, leaving a tail of about 7".

For larger sizes, you may wish to make a larger flower, in which case, add the following row:

Round 4: Sl st to next loop, ch1, sc in same loop; *ch8, sc in next loop; rep from * 4 more times, ch8, sl st to beg sc.

Fasten off, leaving a tail of about 7".

Tidy up tail end and work it in toward the centre back of the flower, then use it to attach the flower to the headband.

Tidy up any ends, and your headband is complete!

©AG Handmades 2015



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Wednesday, 13 May 2015

Newborn Baby Beanie and Mittens; with additional directions for Preemie Hat.


The simplest of hats and mittens for the littlest ones. These hats and mitts are worked in easy half double crochet, both worked in the round from top to bottom, the mittens being worked exactly as the hat, but smaller!



Difficulty:  Easy

Materials: 1 skein (100g) worsted weight (aran/10ply/ Weight 4) yarn; 4mm hook (G/6; UK 8); yarn needle for weaving in ends; stitch marker.

Abbreviations: sc – single crochet; hdc – half double crochet; sl st – slip stitch; fphdc – front post half double crochet; bphdc – back post half double crochet; ch – chain; rep – repeat; beg – beginning; st(s) – stitch(es).

Gauge: 12 sts and 14 rows hdc with 4mm hook = 4”

Finished size: 

Hat: Newborn: Circumference 12-14”; Height 5.5” 
         Preemie:  Circumference 10"-11; Height 4"


Mittens: Newborn: 2.5” across palm; 3.5” Length


Pattern Notes:
  1. Pattern for both hat and mittens are worked in a spiral without joining, unless told to do otherwise. Place a stitch marker at the start of each row to keep your place.
  2. Pattern is written in US terms, a conversion chart is included.
  3. If you do not know how to make a magic ring, you may follow the instructions here: http://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/2014/11/how-to-make-a-magic-ring.html
  4. To learn how to work front and back post half double crochet, you may follow the instructions here: http://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/2015/04/fpsc-fphdc-and-fpdc-stitch-tutorials.html



Pattern:

Newborn Hat:

Row 1: With 4mm (G) hook, make a magic ring. Ch1, work 9 hdc into the ring. Do not join. Alternatively, ch 4, sl st to 1st ch to make a ring, ch1, then work 9 hdc into the ring. (9)

Do not join, continue working in a spiral until told to do otherwise.

Row 2: 2 hdc into next st and into every stitch around. (18)

Row 3: * hdc in next st; 2 hdc in next st *; repeat from * to * around. (27)

Row 4: * hdc in next 2 sts; 2 hdc in next st *; repeat from * to * around. (36)

Row 5: Continuing to work in a spiral (no joins), hdc in every stitch around, using the stitch marker to keep track of the beginning and end of each row. Keep working in hdc in every stitch until hat measures 5” from the crown (where you began) to the edge. In the last 2 sts of the last row, sc in next st; sl st in next st.

Edging:

Row 1: Ch1; sc in same st as ch 1 and in every stitch around. Slip stitch to beginning sc to join the row. (36)

Row 2: Repeat Row 1. (36)

Fasten off and weave in ends.




Newborn Mittens:

(Make Two)

Row 1: With 4mm hook, make a magic ring; ch1, work 8 hdc into the ring. Do not join. Alternatively, ch 4, sl st to 1st ch to make a ring, ch1, then work 8 hdc into the ring. (8)

Row 2: 2 hdc into next st and into every stitch around. (16)

Row 3: Sc in next st; hdc in next st and every stitch to end of row. (16)

Row 4-10: Hdc in next and every stitch around; (16)

Row 11: Hdc in next and every stitch around to last 2 sts; sc in next st; sl st in next st. (16) Mittens should now measure 3”. If they are shorter or longer, adjust the number of rows accordingly.

Row 12: Ch1; * fphdc in next st; bphdc in next st *; repeat from * to * to end of row; sl st to beginning fphdc to complete the row. (16)

[Note: If you do not wish to work front and back post stitches, you may simply work 3 rows of single crochet instead.]

Rows 13 and 14: Repeat Row 12.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ties: (Optional) Chain 60, fasten off and weave in the tails into the chain itself. Thread chain through the mittens between front and back post stitches, tie in a bow.

                                                                                                                        


Additional instructions for Preemie Hat:



Row 1: With 4mm hook, make a magic ring. Ch1, work 7 hdc into the ring. Do not join. Alternatively, ch 3, sl st to 1st ch to make a ring, ch1, then work 7 hdc into the ring. (7)

Do not join, continue working in a spiral until told to do otherwise.

Row 2: 2 hdc into next st and into every stitch around. (14)

Row 3: * hdc in next st; 2 hdc in next st *; repeat from * to * around. (21)

Row 4: * hdc in next 2 sts; 2 hdc in next st *; repeat from * to * around. (28)

Row 5: Continuing to work in a spiral (no joins), hdc in every stitch around, using the stitch marker to keep track of the beginning and end of each row. Keep working in hdc in every stitch until hat measures 3.5” from the crown (where you began) to the edge. In the last 2 sts of the last row, sc in next st; sl st in next st.

Edging:

Row 1: Ch1; sc in same st as ch 1 and in every stitch around. Slip stitch to beginning sc to join the row. (28)

Row 2: Repeat Row 1. (28)

Fasten off and weave in ends.


                                                                                                                            ©AG Handmades 2015






With thanks to Mistie Bush of http://www.americancrochet.com for helping with testing the pattern.


Why not match these up with the Easiest Booties?  You can make the whole set, hat, mitts and booties for newborn size for less than 1 x 100g skein of yarn!






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Saturday, 9 May 2015

Fiber Flux: Free Crochet Pattern...Little Daisy Earrings!

I've been looking at Jewellery lately and just as I had closed my browser, I logged into Google and saw this blog post below.

Take a look at these delightful little earrings!   So easy and they are so pretty!



Fiber Flux: Free Crochet Pattern...Little Daisy Earrings!:



'via Blog this'

Saturday, 2 May 2015

Jamie Baby Blanket

Jamie Baby Blanket
blank1bc.jpg
A beautifully textured baby blanket, warm and cosy for pram or crib, and substantial enough to use on the floor.  You can decide on any size you want.  The blanket in the picture above is 39” x 45”.


Difficulty:  Intermediate - you need to be comfortable working with alternate post stitches and hdc, changing colours, and keeping the border stitches even.  It would also be better to begin the blanket with a foundation half double crochet instead of a normal chain then a row of hdc, as this keeps the bottom edge from being too tight.


Because of the stitch used, this is a bit of a wool-eater.  But well worth it for the warmth and texture produced.


Pattern is written in standard US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.

Materials:  880 - 900 grams total (32 oz) worsted weight yarn (aran/10ply); made up of approx 400 grams Colour A (I used Red Heart Soft Baby Steps in Mint Green), 400 grams Colour B (I used Red Heart Soft Baby Steps in White), and a 90 grams of Colour C (I used Red Heart Soft Baby Steps in Pink); 5mm and 5.5mm hooks; yarn needle for sewing in ends; stitch markers.


Abbreviations: sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet; beg = beginning; sk = skip; rep = repeat; fhdc = foundation half double crochet; sp = space.


You can make this blanket any size you wish.  It is as simple as starting with any even number of stitches, and working to the length you wish.


Gauge:  not important for this pattern, but the blanket in the pictures worked out at 12 sts and 16 rows (alternate hdc/fpdc pattern) with 5mm hook = 4”.


blank8bc.jpg


For the blanket above, the instructions are as follows:


Row 1:  With 5mm hook, make a foundation half double crochet of 100 sts.  Turn.


Row 2:  Ch1, sc in same st as ch1, and in every stitch across.  Change to Colour B on last stitch.  Turn. (100)


Row 3:  Ch1, hdc in same st as ch1, hdc in next st; fpdc in next st, working around st 2 rows below; *hdc in next; fpdc in next (working around st 2 rows below)*; rep to end; hdc in last sc from prev row. Turn.
Row 4:  Ch1, sc in same st as ch1 and in every stitch across.


Change to Colour A on last stitch.  Turn.


Row 5:  Ch1, hdc in same st as ch1, *fpdc in next st, working around st 2 rows below; hdc in next st*; rep to end, hdc in last sc from prev row.  Turn.


Row 6:  Ch1, sc in same st as ch1 and in every stitch across.


Change to Colour B on last stitch.  Turn.


With the exception of colour changes, these 4 rows (3 to 6) form the pattern.  You will be repeating these 4 rows throughout the rest of the blanket, turning at the end of each row, until you begin the border.


Rows 7 & 8:  Repeat Rows 3 and 4; change to Colour C on last stitch.


Rows 9 to 10:  Repeat Rows 5 and 6, change to colour B on last stitch.


Rows 11 to 12:  Repeat Rows 3 and 4, change to colour A on last stitch.


Rows 13 to 14:  Repeat Rows 5 and 6, Change to colour B on last stitch.


Beginning with Colour B, Repeat Rows 3 to 6, alternating 2 rows of Colour B and 2 rows of Colour A, until work measures the desired length minus about 3”; Change to Colour B on last st.


Repeat Rows 3 to 4 in Colour B; Change to Colour C on last st of the last row.


Next 2 Rows:  Repeat Rows 5 and 6 in Colour C, Change to Colour B on the last st.


Next 2 Rows:  Repeat Rows 3 and 4 in Colour B, Change to Colour A on the last st.


Next 2 Rows:  Repeat Rows 5 and 6 in Colour A, Change to Colour B on the last st.


Next 2 Rows:  Repeat Rows 3 and 4 in Colour B, Change to Colour A on the last st.


Next 2 Rows:  Repeat Rows 5 and 6 in Colour A; do not change colour.  Turn.


I recommend that you now change to a 5.5mm hook, as the border will tend to pull in otherwise, and this keeps it all even.


Still with Colour A and with a 5.5mm hook, Ch1, (sc, ch2, sc) in same stitch, sc to end.  In the last st, work (sc, ch2, sc) again.  Sc evenly down left side (make a note of how many sts you work for this side, placing stitch markers every 10th st); (sc, ch2, sc) in last st; sc across bottom edge; (sc, ch2, sc) in corner st; sc up the right side, making sure you have the exact same number of sts on the right and left side (having those stitch markers every 10th st on the other side will guide you); sl st to beg sc.  Change to Colour B.  Do not turn from now on, continue on the right side of the blanket to end.


Border:  


Row 1:  (Try not to work this row too tightly, slacken your tension if you can).  Ch1, sc in same st, ch1, sk 1, *sc in next st, ch1, sk1*; rep from * to * around the whole blanket, remembering to work (sc, ch2, sc) in all four corner sts; sl st to beg sc.  Fasten off Colour A.


Row 2:  Attach Colour B to any ch1 space from the prev row; ch1, sc in same st; ch1, *sc in next ch1 space; ch1*; rep from * to * all around blanket, again working (sc, ch2, sc) in all four corners; sl st to beg sc.  Fasten off Colour B.  


Row 3:  Attach Colour C to any ch1 space from the prev row; ch1, sc in same st; ch1, *sc in next ch1 space; ch1*; rep from * to * all around blanket, again working (sc, ch2, sc) in all four corners; sl st to beg sc.  Fasten off Colour C.


Row 4:  Attach Colour B to any ch1 space from the prev row; ch1, sc in same st; ch1, *sc in next ch1 space; ch1*; rep from * to * all around blanket, again working (sc, ch2, sc) in all four corners; sl st to beg sc.  Fasten off Colour B.  


Row 5:  Attach Colour C to any ch1 space from the prev row; ch1, sc in same st; ch1, *sc in next ch1 space; ch1*; rep from * to * all around blanket, again working (sc, ch2, sc) in all four corners; sl st to beg sc.  Fasten off Colour C.


Row 6:  Attach Colour A to any ch1 space from the prev row; ch1, sc in same st; ch1, *sc in next ch1 space; ch1*; rep from * to * all around blanket, again working (sc, ch2, sc) in all four corners; sl st to beg sc.


Row 7:  Ch1, sc in same st; 2 sc in every ch1 space all around blanket, this time working 3sc in all four corners; sc once more in the space in which you began with a single sc, sl st to beg sc; Fasten off.


Weave in your ends, and your blanket is complete.


©AG Handmades 2015

us to uk terms.jpg

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