Monday, 28 September 2015

2015 CWU & AC Mystery Blanket CAL Rows 7-12




7-12 2b.jpg


Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.


After Row 6, you should have a total of 286 hdc and 4 x ch2 spaces (82 hdc along each long side, 61 hdc along each short side)


Row 7:


Special Stitch: Crossed Double Crochet (CDC): dc in the next stitch, then cross over the front of the dc you just worked, back to the 2nd st you skipped and work another dc in that stitch, creating a crossed dc.


Join new colour in any ch2 corner sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc); (dc, ch2, 2dc) in the same corner space, ch1.


*sk next 2 hdc, CDC in next st; ch1*; rep from * to * to last st before next corner; sk last st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into corner ch2 space.  Ch1.**


Repeat from * to ** 3 times more; sl st to top of beg ch3.  Do not fasten off.  (94 CDC 16 dc & 4 x ch2 spaces)  Total stitches = (310)


Row 8:  Ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in next st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 sp; hdc in next 2 sts;


*hdc in ch1 sp; hdc in top of each dc of the CDC previously worked; repeat from * to end, remembering to work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in the corner ch2 spaces.  sl st to top of beg ch2; fasten off.  (318 hdc & 4 ch2 spaces)


Change colour.


Row 9:  


Special Stitch;  Star Stitch:  1dc, insert hook in top half of the side (post) of the dc you just worked and pull a loop through; insert hook in lower half of dc you just worked, pull a loop through; insert hook into space at the base of the dc you just worked, pull a loop through, insert hook into next stitch from previous row, pull a loop through, insert hook into next stitch from previous row, pull a loop through – you should now have 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all six loops. Work one chain to “close” the star. To work next and following stars in the row, insert hook into the chain you used to “close” the star (sometimes called the “eye” of the star), pull up a loop, insert hook into the star behind the last “spoke”, pull a loop through, insert hook into base of that same spoke, pull up a loop, insert hook through next stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook through next stitch, pull up a loop. You should, again have 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops, again working a chain to “close” the star.


Attach new colour in corner ch2 space, then working across the first *short* side, *(Ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 space.  Sk 1 hdc.


dc in top of next st; work star stitch (see Special Stitches) to last st before corner (33 stars), dc in same st as end of last star stitch; sk 1 hdc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner space.


Turn to work down the 1st long side.


Sk 1 hdc.  dc in top of next st; star stitch to last st before corner (44 stars), dc in same st as end of last star stitch; sk 1 hdc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner space.


Repeat these instructions for the other two sides of the blanket - 33 stars on the short side, 44 stars on the longer side.


sl st to top of beg ch3.  Do not fasten off.   (154 stars, 12 dc, 4 x ch2 spaces)


Row 10:  Ch2, hdc in next st (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 space; hdc in next 3 sts.


Skip to the “eye” of the star stitch (where you made the ch1 to close the stitch), work 2 hdc into the “eye” of the star, and in every “eye” to the end of this side.  Hdc in the top of the dc which completed the star stitches in the previous rows, hdc in next 2 sts, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 space.


Turn to work down the longer side.


Hdc in next 3 sts, skip to “eye” of the next star stitch, 2 hdc in each “eye” of each star, to the end of this side, working hdc into the top of the dc which completed the star stitches from the prev row, hdc in next 2 sts, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into corner space.


Repeat instructions for the other two sides of this row, sl st to beg ch2, fasten off.  (348 hdc and 4 x ch2 spaces)


Change colour.


Row 11:  


Special Stitch:  Extended Mesh Stitch (EMS):  yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull yarn through (3 loops on hook), sk next st, yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull yarn through (5 loops on hook), yo, pull yarn through 2 loops, yo, pull yarn through remaining 4 loops. NOTE: each new EMS stitch is started in the *same space* in which the last EMS was completed.


Attach yarn to any ch2 corner space.  Ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), (hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into corner space; ch1, sk next st, *EMS in next st, ch1*; repeat from * to * to next corner;  (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 space; **ch1, sk next st; (EMS in next, ch1) to next corner space; (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 sp; repeat from ** once; ch1, sk next st; (EMS in next, ch1) to beg ch2, sl st to top of beg ch2.   (170 EMS; 174 ch 1 spaces, 8 hdc, 4 x ch2 spaces - total stitch count = 360)


Row 12:  Ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in next st, *(2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into corner ch2 space; hdc in each top of EMS from prev row, and also in each ch1 space to next corner space; rep from * twice; (2hc, ch2, 2 hdc) in corner ch2 space; hdc in each top of EMS from prev row, and also in each ch1 space to beg ch2; sl st to beg ch2.  Fasten off.  (372 hdc & 4 x ch2 spaces).


©AG Handmades 2015


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Saturday, 26 September 2015

2015 Holiday Blog Hop Post Number #9 Holiday Headband

Well it seems we have had a few hiccups this week, and the latest Holiday Blog Hop post did not go out as planned.

We have therefore had a shuffle around, and since I had this one all ready to publish, this is now my week!

Hope you enjoy this simple pattern for a clever little headband that will fit from a child to an adult, and is totally adaptable for any size.

Without further ado - welcome to this week's Holiday Blog Hop!



Holiday Headband
hhb4bc.jpghhb2bc.jpg


A simple and fast headband to whip up for the Holiday season.  Add a little sparkle to your outfit for those special days.


hhb5bc.jpg


Difficulty:  Easy


To fit:  Child-Adult


Actual Measurements when finished: Length: 20” unstretched, up to 24” stretched; Width 2”.  Can be adapted to any size.


Materials:  Approx 75 yds Red Heart Holiday Yarn in Green Metallic (worsted weight, #4); Adult or Child Elastic Hair Band; 5mm (H/8) hook; yarn needle.


Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern, as it is very stretchy but for reference, sample worked according to pattern was 2” wide, and 10 rows hdc measured 4”.


Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sl st = slip stitch; ch = chain; st/s = stitch/es; beg - beginning; rep = repeat


Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.

Instructions:


Row 1:  With 5mm (H/8) hook, chain 11; hdc into the 3rd chain from hook (1st 2 chain count as 1 hdc), *ch1, sk1, hdc in next st hdc; rep from * to end.  Turn. (6 hdc and 4 ch 1 spaces)


Row 2:  Ch2, hdc in first ch1 space; (ch1, sk 1, hdc in next space) a total of 3 times; ch1, sk1, hdc in top of beg ch2 from prev round.  Turn.


Repeat Row 2 to desired length.  Sample was made to 18”.


Next Row:  Holding one side of the elastic headband against the row you are now working on, ch1, single crochet across every hdc and ch1 space, taking the hair band into the stitches as you go, to the end of the row.  Fasten off securely.


Attach yarn to the other end, and again, holding the opposite side of the elastic hair band against the 1st row, ch1 and single crochet in every stitch across, taking the hair band into the stitches as you go, to the end of the row.  Fasten off securely.  Weave in ends.


Et Voila!  Your pretty Holiday hairband is complete.
©AG Handmades 2015





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Monday, 21 September 2015

2015 CWU & AC Mystery CAL Joining the Centre 6 Squares

2015 CWU & AC Mystery CAL
Joining the Centre 6 Squares


Once you have your six centre squares made, arrange them in a group of 2 x 3


as in the following diagram - this creates the middle of the blanket which we will be working around.






For this CAL, we are just going to join these with a simple whip stitch.  


Place two squares together, Right Sides facing each other, and place a stitch marker in the corner stitches to line them up. Sometimes when different people create patterns you may have squares with an uneven number of stitches.  In most CALs, the designers will ensure that this is never more than 1 or at most 2 extra sts on any one side to make it easier to work them in neatly.  Just do the best you can to keep them as even as possible, while all the time making sure those corner sts always match up.


Step 1:  The Markers are placed at the very corner sts.


1 markers in corners.jpg


Step 2:  I have used bright yellow yarn for this just so that you can see it better - you will be using a matching yarn to the squares you are joining.  Thread your yarn through the very corner sts, using only the outer loops on both sides.  No need to knot it, we will anchor it in  moment by threading the yarn through the same two stitches again.


2 thread yarn through corner sts, using only the outside loop of the stitches.jpg  3 slip yarn through the same sts once more to anchor it.jpg 4 yarn is now anchored at the corner st ends can be woven in afterwards.jpg


Step 3:  Now that your yarn is anchored, you need to carry on inserting the needle from one side to the other, using only the outer loops, as before, all along the side of the squares.


7 like this into each pair of sts across the two ends of the square.jpg 8 here are a few sts completed.jpg


Step 4:  Now that we have come to the other end, the main things to remember are, keep the stitches even and neat, and make sure those corners meet perfectly.


9 sometimes you get an uneven number of sts at the end.jpg  11 the odd stitch is worked neatly into the edge and we have arrived at the corner.jpg


Step 5:  Slip that end stitch through once more in the same space to make sure the corner is nice and secure.  Then you can go ahead and start adding more sides in the same manner.


Here’s what the right side looks like when you are done:


12 the right side of the work showing the whip sts from the other side and a neat seam.jpg


You can see the yellow sts evenly spaced showing through from the back.  You will, of course, be using a matching yarn for this, so that the colour difference is not so obvious.  But you will also see that we have created a nice even joining seam.  


Now carry on with the rest of the squares and we will continue on after that is complete!

© AG Handmades 2015

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2015 CWU & AC Mystery CAL Harvest Square

2015 CWU & AC Mystery CAL Harvest Square


Harvest Blanket CAL.jpg


Difficulty:  Easy


Materials: 5mm (H/8) crochet hook; 15 g (26-30 yds) Worsted Weight yarn #4, (in any 3 colours); Sample shown was made using Lion Brand Heartland in Denali (pink), Everglades (green) and Acadia (Cream).


Finished size:  6” square.


Gauge : Not necessary for this pattern but for reference, with 5mm hook, 5 x 3dc clusters and 6 rows of 3 dc clusters = 4” x 4”.  Adjust your hook size if you need to so that the finished square turns out at 6” x 6”.


Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; trc = treble crochet; sl st = slip stitch; ch = chain; rep = repeat; beg = beginning; st/s = stitch/es.


 Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.


Instructions:  


Row 1:  With 5mm hook and Colour A, make a magic ring; ch 1, work 12 sc into the ring.  (Alternatively, ch 4, sl st to first chain, ch 1, then work 12 sc into the ring). Sl st to first sc. (12)


Row 2:  *Ch3**, sk 1 sc, sc into next st (loop made); repeat from * 5 times, ending last repeat at **. Slip stitch to the first loop. (24)


Row 3:  *(Ch1, sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc) into the ch3 loop**, sl st to next loop; repeat from * 5 times, ending last repeat at **; sl st to beg sc. (42)


Row 4:  *Ch 4, (sc, ch3, sc) into top of trc from previous row, ch 4, sl st to the bottom of the “V” between petals; repeat from * 5 times; fasten off Colour A.


Row 5:  Working at the back of the flower, attach Colour B with a slip stitch around one of the 6 centre “spokes”; *Ch3, sl st to next “spoke” with a single crochet; repeat from * 4 times; ch3, sl st to first ch3 loop made. (6 x ch3 loops)


Row 6: Ch3, 3dc into ch3 loop; * 4dc in next loop; repeat from * 4 times, sl st to top of beg ch3. (24)


Row 7: Ch3, 2dc into same st as ch3, * sk 2 sts; (3dc, ch2, 3dc) into next st; sk 2 sts; 3dc into next st; repeat from * twice, sk 2 sts, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) into next st; sk 2 sts; sl st to top of beg ch3.  Sl st over to next space; Change to Colour C and fasten off Colour B. (44)


Row 8: Ch 3, 2dc into the same as space as ch3, *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) into corner ch2 space**, (3dc into next space between 3dc clusters) twice; repeat from * 3 times, finishing last repeat at **; 3dc into next space between clusters; sl st to beg ch3.  Slip stitch over to the next space between clusters, Fasten off Colour C, change to Colour B. (56)


Row 9:  Ch3, 2dc into same space; *(3dc, ch2, 3dc) into corner ch 2 space**, (3dc into next space between 3dc clusters) 3 times; repeat from * 3 times, finishing last repeat at **; (3dc into next space between clusters) twice; sl st to beg ch3.  Change to Colour A and Fasten off Colour B. (68)


Row 10:  Ch1, sc in same st and in every stitch around, working (sc, ch3, sc) into each corner space, sl st to beg sc.  Fasten off, weave in ends, and your granny square is complete.  (80)


©AG Handmades 2015


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Thursday, 17 September 2015

2015 Holiday Blog Hop: Snowy House Hat

WELCOME TO THE 2015 HOLIDAY BLOG HOP


Amy, Mistie, Rhondda, and I have been working really hard to bring you a FREE #Crochet holiday pattern every Thursday from August until October visit us for a Free Holiday Crochet Pattern!

Full information on patterns being released HERE

This week it's my turn and this time it's a fun little hat for the baby of the family:

The Snowy House Hat!

It even has a little puff of smoke coming out of the chimney!

chh1d.jpg


A fun little hat to make for the holidays just for the littlest of the family.  Snow on the roof of the house, a little door and a tiny puff of smoke coming out of the chimney.


Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.


Difficulty:  Easy but must have knowledge of working in front and back loops and working front post half double crochet.


Materials: 50g Worsted Weight yarn #4 in Red; 25g Worsted Weight yarn #4 in White; small amount of Worsted Weight #4 in black; small amount of Worsted Weight #4 in Brown; oddment of Worsted Weight yarn #4 in Green


Sample was worked with Stylecraft Special Aran in “White” and “Lipstick”.  The door and chimney were made from other oddments of worsted weight yarn.


4mm (G/6) hook; yarn needle for weaving in ends


Abbreviations used:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; fphdc = front post half double crochet; trc = treble crochet; sl st = slip stitch; st/s = stitch/es; beg = beginning; rep = repeat; flo = front loop only; blo = back loop only.


Gauge:  14 sts and 14 rows hdc = 4” square


Finished Size:  3-6 months; 14” - 16” Circumference; 6” hat length.



Pattern:


Work the chimney first as follows:


Row 1:  With black and 4mm (G/6) hook, make a magic ring, ch1, work 9 hdc into the ring.  Join with beg hdc. (9)


Row 2:  Ch1, sc in flo around, sl st to beg sc.


Rows 3 - 6: Ch1, sc in same st as ch1 and every st around ; Change to white on last st of Row 6.  Turn.


Row 7:  Ch1, sc in same st and to end,  sl st to beg sc,  fasten off white.  Tidy up ends.


.  
Snowy Roof:


Row 8.  Go to the other end of the chimney and attach white to any unused loop from Row 2 where you worked into the front loops only; sc around once in the unused back loops from that row, then continue, working in rounds without joining.


Row 9:  2 hdc into each stitch around.  (18)


Row 10:  *Hdc into next st; 2 hdc into next st; repeat from * to the end of the row.  (27)


Row 11:  *hdc into the next 2 sts; 2 hdc into the next st; repeat from * to the end of the row.  (36)


Row 12:  *hdc into the next 3 sts; 2 hdc into the next st; repeat from * to the end of the row, then sc in next st, and sl st in next.  (45)


Row 13: ch2, hdc in flo around; sl st to beg hdc.


Row 14: ch3, dc in next 3 sts, 2 trc in each of the next 3 sts, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 trc in each of the next 5 sts, dc in next 3 sts, hdc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, 2 trc in each of the next 3 sts, dc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next st, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc to end, sl st to beg ch3.


Row 15:  ch1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc to end. sl st to beg ch1 and fasten off white.


Row 16:  Fold the edge towards you to find the unused back loops from Row 13.  With the centre inside of the hat away from you; attach white to an unused back loop from that row.  Ch1, sc in same st and in next 44 sts. (45)  Do not join.


Row 17:  hdc around, changing to red on last st


Now you have a choice - do you want the textured version or the plain version?  I made the textured pattern to imitate the brickwork on a house, but if you prefer a simpler version then by all means skip the “Textured Version” part and move on to the “Plain Version” below.


Textured Version:


Row 18:  *fphdc, hdc 4; rep from * to end


Row 19:  hdc 3; *fphdc, hdc 4; rep from * to last 2 sts, fphdc in next st; hdc in next st


Row 20:  hdc 1; *fphdc, hdc 4; rep from * to last 4 sts, fphdc, hdc 3


Row 21:   hdc 4; *fphdc, hdc 4; rep from * to last st; fphdc


Row 22:   hdc 2, *fphdc, hdc 4; rep from * to last 3 sts; fphdc, hdc 2


Row 23:   hdc 5; *fphdc; hdc 4; repeat from * to end


Repeat Rows 19-23 as many times as required until you reach 5.5” in length. You do not have to complete all 5 rows of the repeat, just stop when you reach the right length. sc in next st, sl st in next st.


Go on to “Ribbing”.


Plain Version:


Rows 18 - end of main portion of hat: Hdc around to 5.5”; sc in next st; sl st in next st,  then go to “Ribbing”.


Ribbing:


Row 1:  Ch 2, *fphdc in next st; hdc in next st; rep from * to end, sl st to top of beg ch2.
Row 2 - 3:  Repeat Row 1


Fasten off Red.


To make the “smoke” coming out of the chimney - just take a length of yarn, around 6”, fray the ends with a pin, or hairbrush -just enough to make a little bit that looks like smoke.  Feed the other end down the side of the chimney on the inside and through to the inside of the hat.  Keeping the strand in place so that the smoke peeps out of the chimney, weave in the other end to secure and fasten off.


Front Door:


Row 1:  Chain 5, sc across, turn.


Row 2:  Ch1, sc across, turn. (4)


Rows 3-6:  repeat Row 2.


Row 7:  Ch1, (sc2tog twice), do not turn. (2)


Row 8:  Sl st or single crochet around the edge of the door, whichever you find easiest.


Sew the door onto the hat and make a door knob with a simple french knot.  Or just sew a small x shape if that is easier for you.


Fasten off, and weave in your ends.


©AG Handmades 2015



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